Secret new cooker REVEALED!!! "007"

[Mr.OiSat]

That's such an amazing type of cooker, i love the idea.

How do you hold the grate in the higher position? Is there a screw or anything to prevent it from sliding down?

 

[Fwismoker]

That's such an amazing type of cooker, i love the idea.

How do you hold the grate in the higher position? Is there a screw or anything to prevent it from sliding down?

Thank you, definitely cooks amazing for sure.

There is a collar with a bolt so it's just raised and locked down.

 

[Mr.OiSat]

Thank you, definitely cooks amazing for sure.

There is a collar with a bolt so it's just raised and locked down.

Thanks for the fast response Fwismoker. Do you have a picture of that collar?

 

[dadsr4]

Thanks for the fast response Fwismoker. Do you have a picture of that collar?

Lots of pics here, first post.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231293

 

[Mr.OiSat]

Thanks, I somehow missed the pic with the grate up high.

 

[Fwismoker]

Thanks, I somehow missed the pic with the grate up high.

Understandable, I tried to take pics showing all the parts.

 

[OferL]

Honestly it's just one of those things that you have to experience first hand before you truly understand...It's fun to learn for sure.


I was going to sell this but just way way too much liability for different reasons to sell to the public ...But it's one bad arse cooker that you can't commercially buy something that cooks as good IMO. It's something you can fabricate or have fabricated though and end up with one incredible little cooker. I could definitely see making one with a larger size like 85-110 gallon drum or large propane tank...also with the larger size It could spin even large hogs because I'd really like a hog rotisserie. The 55 gallon size is perfect for everyday cooks though.

It makes me wish I had the skills to build it...
More questions...
I read you said that there is no air intake close to the fire. Does the air come both in and out of the top?
Rotisserie - (never tried that) is that just something you buy?

BTW I didn't quite get your remark re liability. I see some people here going into the cookers building business. What's the difference? Or is it that they worked out that obstacle?

 

[Fwismoker]

It makes me wish I had the skills to build it...
More questions...
I read you said that there is no air intake close to the fire. Does the air come both in and out of the top?
Rotisserie - (never tried that) is that just something you buy?

BTW I didn't quite get your remark re liability. I see some people here going into the cookers building business. What's the difference? Or is it that they worked out that obstacle?

It's a cooker more designed for the more experienced and for those that have above agerage common sense. Unfortunately not everyone falls into that category. This is not the type of cooker you can write directions for..lol and many can't read or understand directions anyway.



I could see someone burning themselves or others by touching the sides, or swiveling off 180 degrees with a heavy load and tipping it over, or cooking with to big of a fire and too much grease, or ruing the paint on their drum by throwing in way too much wood....just too much liability for someone being careless or not smart.

Intake question...there's intakes but not used all the time. They're open for starting but when the fire is established I often close them all the way or part way. The fire gets plenty of oxygen from the top

 

[Jrogers84]

I have a questions on the build. As for the 2 different sizes of pipe or rod you used, I see that the one main piece fits inside of the "hinges" very tight. What did you use for this?

 

[ebijack]

I have a questions on the build. As for the 2 different sizes of pipe or rod you used, I see that the one main piece fits inside of the "hinges" very tight. What did you use for this?

Version 2.0 he used thickwall tubing, the mounts to hold the tubing would have a I.D. slightly larger than the O.D. of the thick wall tubing to insure an easy rotation. Size/dia would depends in how you build it and what you expect the max load/weight would be on the grate and under shelf. Quite a few ways to do it.

 

[Jrogers84]

I am assuming by thick wall you mean schedule 80? I am looking at 1/2" to go inside 1" but their would still be a little play. .84" OD to go inside .96" ID. I might just need to make it out your way soon

 

[dwfisk]

I have a questions on the build. As for the 2 different sizes of pipe or rod you used, I see that the one main piece fits inside of the "hinges" very tight. What did you use for this?

Version 2.0 he used thickwall tubing, the mounts to hold the tubing would have a I.D. slightly larger than the O.D. of the thick wall tubing to insure an easy rotation. Size/dia would depends in how you build it and what you expect the max load/weight would be on the grate and under shelf. Quite a few ways to do it.

I am assuming by thick wall you mean schedule 80? I am looking at 1/2" to go inside 1" but their would still be a little play. .84" OD to go inside .96" ID. I might just need to make it out your way soon

Let me try to help a little. Version #1 was made with 0.75" OD X 0.120" wall, 0.510" ID DOM tubing with a 0.50" cold rolled round rod for the "axle". Keith noticed a little sag when it was loaded up so we made version #2 with 1.00" OD X 0.120 wall, 0.760 ID DOM tubing and the "axle" is 0.750" X 0.120 wall DOM tubing. Apparently V#2 solved the sag issue.

All of the tolerances are pretty tight (0.01") to the point you can overheat and distort the tubing when welding up the brackets. If that happens you can true the ID's with a rotary carbide rasp. Wear good eyewear, these rasps throw off a lot of sharp fine metal shavings!

For small quantities I have found MetalsDepot.com to be a pretty good source for DOM tubing. Hope this helps.

 

[dwfisk]

That's such an amazing type of cooker, i love the idea.

How do you hold the grate in the higher position? Is there a screw or anything to prevent it from sliding down?

Thank you, definitely cooks amazing for sure.

There is a collar with a bolt so it's just raised and locked down.

Thanks for the fast response Fwismoker. Do you have a picture of that collar?

Here is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Jeremywell®-..._6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1471353356&sr=1-6
You will need to get a size that fits your application. I like to replace the 1/4-20 allen screw with a 1/4-20 bolt or thumb screw.

 

[Jrogers84]

Let me try to help a little. Version #1 was made with 0.75" OD X 0.120" wall, 0.510" ID DOM tubing with a 0.50" cold rolled round rod for the "axle". Keith noticed a little sag when it was loaded up so we made version #2 with 1.00" OD X 0.120 wall, 0.760 ID DOM tubing and the "axle" is 0.750" X 0.120 wall DOM tubing. Apparently V#2 solved the sag issue.

All of the tolerances are pretty tight (0.01") to the point you can overheat and distort the tubing when welding up the brackets. If that happens you can true the ID's with a rotary carbide rasp. Wear good eyewear, these rasps throw off a lot of sharp fine metal shavings!

For small quantities I have found MetalsDepot.com to be a pretty good source for DOM tubing. Hope this helps.

Well, I think my idea is starting to fade I need to buy a welder im thinking! Thank you for the info!

 

[Fwismoker]

Let me try to help a little. Version #1 was made with 0.75" OD X 0.120" wall, 0.510" ID DOM tubing with a 0.50" cold rolled round rod for the "axle". Keith noticed a little sag when it was loaded up so we made version #2 with 1.00" OD X 0.120 wall, 0.760 ID DOM tubing and the "axle" is 0.750" X 0.120 wall DOM tubing. Apparently V#2 solved the sag issue.

All of the tolerances are pretty tight (0.01") to the point you can overheat and distort the tubing when welding up the brackets. If that happens you can true the ID's with a rotary carbide rasp. Wear good eyewear, these rasps throw off a lot of sharp fine metal shavings!

For small quantities I have found MetalsDepot.com to be a pretty good source for DOM tubing. Hope this helps.

Yea going from 1/2" cold rolled to 3/4" D.O.M made a HUGE difference for sagging. It's virtually elimanted now....zero flex in the tube

 

[Fwismoker]

HI like to replace the 1/4-20 allen screw with a 1/4-20 bolt or thumb screw.

The bolt is definitely the way to go! :thumb:

 

[ebijack]

Well, I think my idea is starting to fade I need to buy a welder im thinking! Thank you for the info!

Before you give up. Stop by, you can see my quick thrown together version and we can discuss what your needs are. If needed I can weld up what ever you need.

 

[ebijack]

All of the tolerances are pretty tight (0.01") to the point you can overheat and distort the tubing when welding up the brackets. If that happens you can true the ID's with a rotary carbide rasp. Wear good eyewear, these rasps throw off a lot of sharp fine metal shavings!

I HATE those things! I have em and have used em, but rather use other methods. Those are a last resort :icon_smile_tongue:

 

[Fwismoker]

I am assuming by thick wall you mean schedule 80? I am looking at 1/2" to go inside 1" but their would still be a little play. .84" OD to go inside .96" ID. I might just need to make it out your way soon

Anytime you want to check out the 2.0 model feel free...just pm me

Fun, versatile and stout little setup for sure

 

[Jrogers84]

Sorry, I meant EBI. Hes close