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This is 3/8 pipe center drilled/reamed to 1/2"

I've used a 1/4 to 3/4" unibit to ream out 1" pipe unions ( needed the ID to be 3/4")? Been awhile, but it does work. You only need to take the treads out typically, leaving plenty of wall thickness.
Or you could use 3/4" ID bushings, found in most hardware small parts isles.
 
So you used a nipple as the collar in that one. what size is the nipple and interior pipe? did your drill out the 1" nipple?
As stated above the photo. That was 3/8 pipe reamed out to 1/2" using 1/2" solid rod for the main support rod. The bushing was one I had laying around that fit. It did not need reaming since the nipple was already reamed and screwed into the bushing. If that makes sense.
 
This thing looks great! And what a bunch of generous people to post their pics.

I like to really char broil a burger. Different type of cook, than the lower / slower chicken.

I just want to confirm that this isn't designed to flame sear meat (fire is far below)

I'm building one ASAP!
 
This thing looks great! And what a bunch of generous people to post their pics.

I like to really char broil a burger. Different type of cook, than the lower / slower chicken.

I just want to confirm that this isn't designed to flame sear meat
(fire is far below)

I'm building one ASAP!

No it sears with the infra red from the fire. I would call it a slower sear.
 
Very excited to start this build. I love the side table. The Big Poppa drum has a shelf. Maybe I'll look at that. Unless I can have one fabricated. It's a great idea.

For me initially it was going to be a "kick stand" for stability swinging 180* but I wanted a table also ...so it became a 2 in 1 application, a table that also serves as the kick stand. :thumb:

Having it fold down is a bonus for the times you need to move the cooker.
 
Is there a really good rotisserie selection over at One Grill for this barrel? I want to be ready when the octoforks arrive. I'd only be buying the motor or whatever parts.

What a hoot!
 
What's a good tool to cut a lower door? I'm cutting up one drum for the door I'll use in a second drum per great tips from ebijack

I have a grinder and that cuts kinds crude. I've cut barrels for biochar before. I have a jigsaw. I could hand cut with a hacksaw. I have a recipro saw. Even a Dremel lol.

A nibbler of some sort?

The wood grate is 5" off the drum floor. Does that still seem like an optimal height?

Where should the door be placed height-wise relative to the wood grate? Another suggestion from ebijack was to use this door as the only draft source. So not sure if the door/ draft should be mostly lower than the wood grate, or if the wood grate should be 1/2 way up the door.

Also since I'm on a roll, is there a suggested door size?

What's the distance from the foor grate to the expanded metal water tray below?

Thanks!
 
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What's a good tool to cut a lower door? I'm cutting up one drum for the door I'll use in a second drum per great tips from ebijack

I have a grinder and that cuts kinds crude. I've cut barrels for biochar before. I have a jigsaw. I could hand cut with a hacksaw. I have a recipro saw. Even a Dremel lol.

A nibbler of some sort?

The wood grate is 5" off the drum floor. Does that still seem like an optimal height? Absolutely ... I wouldn't change it, haven't worried about ash clean up for a long time.

Where should the door be placed height-wise relative to the wood grate? Another suggestion from ebijack was to use this door as the only draft source. So not sure if the door/ draft should be mostly lower than the wood grate, or if the wood grate should be 1/2 way up the door. I'd say up from the bottom third...but if you don't make one no worries... just dropping them in from the top is very easy.

Also since I'm on a roll, is there a suggested door size?

What's the distance from the foor grate to the expanded metal water tray below? There's about 2 feet from the basket to the cook grate.

Thanks!

If I ever do a door it'll be one of these...still it's far far from an necessity with the swing grate.

http://udsparts.com/kits/lavalockr-quick-coaltm-55-gallon-uds-ugly-drum-smoker-access-door.html
 
What's a good tool to cut a lower door?
I have a grinder and that cuts kinds crude. I've cut barrels for biochar before. I have a jigsaw. I could hand cut with a hacksaw. I have a recipro saw. Even a Dremel lol. A nibbler of some sort?
The wood grate is 5" off the drum floor. Does that still seem like an optimal height?
Where should the door be placed height-wise relative to the wood grate? Another suggestion from ebijack was to use this door as the only draft source. So not sure if the door/ draft should be mostly lower than the wood grate, or if the wood grate should be 1/2 way up the door.
Also since I'm on a roll, is there a suggested door size?
What's the distance from the foor grate to the expanded metal water tray below? Thanks!
Unlike Keith, I find the door a requirement. I do not like dropping logs down onto/into a fire. You can break up your fire, log goes into a bad spot, doesn't lay across the fire like I'd like. Not easy to move the logs around for best burn reaching from above.
With the door, I can lay the logs where required. Most of the time without welding gloves. You wouldn't just toss logs into a fire place, if that makes sense.
4" up from the bottom of the drum bottom is plenty of space for the 17" coal grate.
You do NOT need a water pan! You shouldn't use one.
Most nibblers are for very thin sheet metal. The drums I use, a nibbler would never work. You can do it with a sawsall. But a cut-off wheel or grinder with a thin cutting blade would be better. It will not put any torque on the metal like a sawsall's pushing/pulling action.
Door size and location. As long as the door opening is just above your wood basket. I placed mine in between the 2 ribs because I did not use an extra drum for the door. I can use my short 3" high expanded metal basket that I also use for searing in other combinations. But I can also use my 8" high smoking basket. There is still plenty of room. The size, make it plenty large for easy access.
here is mine before a few tweaks I did for fit so I did not need the red RTV

This is the 8" high expanded metal basket
 
Unlike Keith, I find the door a requirement. I do not like dropping logs down onto/into a fire. You can break up your fire, log goes into a bad spot, doesn't lay across the fire like I'd like. Not easy to move the logs around for best burn reaching from above.
Break up fire? Goes into a bad spot? LOL....NONE of that for me. For our BBQ seniors I could see it maybe help. :caked:

I suppose for each individual it's personal preference though. For me to bend down that far would be a pain in the arse. I'm able to "gently" place the split exactly where I want to and use the poker to stoke the fire.

Personal preference for sure but far from a necessity I would have to say from having done this now since my inception of the bird barrel portion...Year and a half or so. Absolutely childs play easy for me
 
What's a good tool to cut a lower door? I'm cutting up one drum for the door I'll use in a second drum per great tips from ebijack

I have a grinder and that cuts kinds crude. I've cut barrels for biochar before. I have a jigsaw. I could hand cut with a hacksaw. I have a recipro saw. Even a Dremel lol.

A nibbler of some sort?

The wood grate is 5" off the drum floor. Does that still seem like an optimal height?

Where should the door be placed height-wise relative to the wood grate? Another suggestion from ebijack was to use this door as the only draft source. So not sure if the door/ draft should be mostly lower than the wood grate, or if the wood grate should be 1/2 way up the door.

Also since I'm on a roll, is there a suggested door size?

What's the distance from the foor grate to the expanded metal water tray below?

Thanks!
A plunge cut with a circular saw with a metal cutting blade for most of the cut, and finish the edges with the jigsaw.
 
Dunno- seeing as how it does not have to be airtight as a UDS, it makes some sense to have a wood door. "place wood" vs. "drop wood"
Necessity? No.
Convenient? Sure seems like it would be.
 
I'm kind of thinking a door. I was on and off again today, but i would have an easier time tending to a fire, I'm thinking.

Not sure I'm down for a $100 door quite yet, but would certainly sacrifice a second drum to get a door.

So no problem with the door being mostly above the fire grate? No advantage to having 1/2 the door opening below that fire grate? That would put the door only a couple inches off the bottom of the drum. Could scoop out ash at that point.
 
Dunno- seeing as how it does not have to be airtight as a UDS, it makes some sense to have a wood door. "place wood" vs. "drop wood"
Necessity? No.
Convenient? Sure seems like it would be.
From the creator of this contraption I'll definitely say it's toward the bottom of the priority list...not much tending needed....an occasional split and a poke with a poker. This is the kind of cooker you can start with no door and see if you want one later. The table stand is MUCH more of a priority
 
I'm kind of thinking a door. I was on and off again today, but i would have an easier time tending to a fire, I'm thinking. Not sure I'm down for a $100 door quite yet, but would certainly sacrifice a second drum to get a door. So no problem with the door being mostly above the fire grate? No advantage to having 1/2 the door opening below that fire grate? That would put the door only a couple inches off the bottom of the drum. Could scoop out ash at that point.
Where do you get $100. We get really nice barrels for $35 from CL.
 
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