Paint type for stick burner repair

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I recently bought my first stick burner. It was used and has just a small amount of rust starting on top of the firebox. I definitely want to paint it before
good weather goes south and I lose my opportunity for paint to dry.

I was told by one person to just use regular rattle can paint. I would think that some sort of high-temperature paint would be better but I have no experience. Does anyone know what would be best?
 

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You can get high temp grill paint in a rattle can from any hardware store. Or you can use a high temp engine paint also in a rattle can.
 
I use Rustoleum High Temp paint that comes in a quart can to keep my Shirley Fab cooker looking like new. They spray it at the shop, but a brush or small roller is all you should need. They make a primer too that you may want to use after you remove any surface rust.
 
I use Rustoleum High Temp paint that comes in a quart can to keep my Shirley Fab cooker looking like new. They spray it at the shop, but a brush or small roller is all you should need. They make a primer too that you may want to use after you remove any surface rust.

This is exactly what you want, if it’s good for Shirley it’s good for me!
 
Rust-oleum makes a 2000° hi heat primer, and a 1200° high heat paint. I would stay away from the 500° high heat. Primer is very important if you have peeling paint or enough rust that requires sanding to remove.

But in general, clean the metal surface of any dust or grease, eliminate any loose or peeling paint, and get rid of rust. Apply primer in light coats, feathering it into surrounding areas. Follow recommended cure times. Then apply your top coat. Hard to cover areas like outside corners, welded attachments etc., may need several light coats of primer.
 
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Thank you all for your help. I thought high-temperature paint would be best.
 
Thank you all for your help. I thought high-temperature paint would be best.


Yes, high temp BUT, not the spray. Use the quart and use a foam roller and you'll get a better looking result. I've used Rustoleum High Temp paint that comes in a quart with great results (ACE hardware...).



Prep is key. Sand the rust down and use a rust converter (gets deep in the pores) before painting or it'll just bubble up again in a few months.
 
How does that work? Its obviously reverse flow. But there doesn't seem to have a decent opening from the firebox to the cooking chamber.
 
How does that work? Its obviously reverse flow. But there doesn't seem to have a decent opening from the firebox to the cooking chamber.

Yeah, I was surprised at that a little too. I did not take a picture of it but there is roughly an inch-and-a-half to two-inch opening across the top of the 18" width of the firebox. You are correct, it is reverse flow so there is a plate or floor that the smoke/heat has to travel under, over to the left side where it enters into the cooking chamber. I have not spent a lot of time noticing how other cookers are constructed in this regard. It is also my first stick burner so I don't have any experience with anything else to compare it to. But it sure draws well and seems to work fine.

One aspect of the design that helped seal the deal for me was that the entry of the smoke into the chimney was level where the food would sit on the lowest rack. I read Franklin's book and remember in the part about him building his smokers, how important it was to him to have the smoke linger at the food level before exiting. Many, mostly cheaper designs have the chimney on top. The smoke can then enter the cooking chamber, rise because of the heat, and travel over, up, and out the chimney, with little smoke reaching the food below. It makes sense to me to force the smoke to cross the food in a convection manner, lingering a bit, before exiting the smoker. Again, I have little experience but that seems correct and appears to work well.
 
Yes, high temp BUT, not the spray. Use the quart and use a foam roller and you'll get a better looking result. I've used Rustoleum High Temp paint that comes in a quart with great results (ACE hardware...).



Prep is key. Sand the rust down and use a rust converter (gets deep in the pores) before painting or it'll just bubble up again in a few months.

I have been reading about rust converters and everything I have found says that rust converters are not to be used on high-temperature items like stoves, grills, etc. Have any of you had problems with them?
 
I've never had good luck with paint of any kind on the firebox.
Best luck I've had is spraying the metal with canola oil and building a fire. Bakes the oil black like a CI pan.
Repeat as necessary.
 
My firebox was REALLY rusty when I bought the smoker a year ago. Here's the process I used that worked really well (credit to the WWW as I researched a bunch and pulled the best ideas for the process I used):

1) Washed/degreased the smoker (soap/water) really well and let it dry in the sun a day or two.
2) Used a cheap harbor freight angle grinder with a 4 1/2" polycarbide abrasive wheel, also from HF, to remove the rust. Note; this thing was AWESOME. It cut through the rust and didnt hurt the metal. Buy a few as they do wear out and return the ones you dont use.
3) Wiped down with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of the "rust dust"
4) Wiped down with Ospho rust converter (nasty, strong stuff)
5) Waited a day for the rust converter to dry
6) Used a foam roller and a can of rustoleum BBQ paint (not spray paint) and did two coats.
7) Let the paint dry a few days then ran a low/slow fire for a few hours to "season" the paint.

That was 18 months ago and the smoker looks like new, despite being outside, uncovered 24/7.

That said, I do wipe it down after every cook with a damp rag with some added mineral oil: Wet an old rag a little with water, add several drops of food grade mineral oil, and wipe down the smoker when its warm. The result is awesome and not sticky. Actually, I wipe down the smoker like this pretty often and the firebox has a seasoned cast-iron type finish now.
 
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By the way, I bought everything I needed from Harbor Freight and ACE Hardware (they have Rustoleum canned BBQ paint, two cans was more than enough for two coats on my huge smoker) so, not too much running around for stuff.
 
I have been reading about rust converters and everything I have found says that rust converters are not to be used on high-temperature items like stoves, grills, etc. Have any of you had problems with them?


Sorry, just saw your question. I used Ospho rust converter 18 months+ ago on my firebox, painted it a day later and have had no issues with paint bubbling. I usually run at 275-325 so, fairly hot, and about 1-2 cooks/month on it so, probably ~25 cooks and no issues so far despite it being outside, uncovered 24/7.
 
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