Help with a new offset

lackskill

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2019
Location
Somewher...
Name or Nickame
Ryan
After years of agonizing over buying an offset and coming close on a couple occasions, I finally bought my first pit a couple weeks ago. It's very much a home built unit, and I'm the 3rd owner. It's not my ideal pit, but the price was right and so was the availability. The previous owner had it for about 10 years and had success with it.

I initially did a biscuit test just to get a feel for it. The temperatures across the pit were uneven but predictable; cooler as you move away from the fire, and substantially more even after you move the first 6" away from the firebox. Managed a clean fire for about 2 hours without much drama. Getting it to start drawing required opening the door on the vertical box.

The second time I ran it, I did some drums and thighs. Starting it was the same. No draft until I ran it with the vertical door open for about 15 minutes. No big deal. I had a little more trouble getting temperatures to settle in this time, it didn't want to keep drawing, so I had to open the vertical door a couple more times. Fire was clean and I was running 2-4 splits of seasoned apple most of the time, varying size and quantity to understand the effects. Wind was higher and from a different direction for this run. In the beginning it was 2-3 mph with the occasional 5-7 mph gust. That was no problem. At about the 2 hour mark, it became clear to me that my cook temperature was substantially lower than the pit temperature measured on the thermometer in the door, so I moved all the food a little closer to the fire and added a split. About 10 minutes later, the wind kicked up to 10-30 and almost immediately I lost all draft and couldn't get pit temps above 200 on the door thermometer, which was about 130 at the food. I fought it for about an hour trying everything from adding splits to opening doors, keeping doors cracked, etc. During this time when I would open the vertical door, the wind direction would cause it to push all the heat back out of the firebox. The fire stayed hot and clean the whole time, but I couldn't get any heat into the pit.

I suspect that what happened is the wind crossing the top of the vertical box caused airflow to stop, and also the wind hitting the pit caused the surface temperature to drop, both causing the draft to stall. There is no chimney, just the vertical box which has a 2" hole centered on top for an exit.

I'm hoping someone can confirm my thoughts here, but I think what I need to do is enlarge the hole and possibly add a chimney. I'm guessing, looking at the previous owners house, that he had an area that was very shielded from the wind. This isn't an option for me, so I either have to find a way to resolve the design deficiency of this pit or, as a last resort, sell it. I really don't want to sell it and I'm willing to tinker, but I don't want to ruin $80 briskets and I'm really chomping at the bit for good brisket.
 

Attachments

  • Smoker.jpg
    Smoker.jpg
    98.9 KB · Views: 245
You have pics of air intake on firebox? Is there not stack on vertical section? If so that needs to be added asap and think about a damper there as well. Before you start trying to factor in affect of wind make sure air intake and exhaust sizes are correct. That will help with draft and then you can fine tune.

What is thickness of metal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'll get some shortly. There's 2 intakes and I also use the lid as needed.

Zero stack on the vertical.

1/4" plate all around.
 
You have pics of air intake on firebox? Is there not stack on vertical section? If so that needs to be added asap and think about a damper there as well. Before you start trying to factor in affect of wind make sure air intake and exhaust sizes are correct. That will help with draft and then you can fine tune.

What is thickness of metal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are the pics:

Intakes (2 intake dampers, pics looking down standing in front of door):
attachment.php

attachment.php


The rest of pics are just in case it helps... Fire box to cooker:

attachment.php


Horizontal cooker to vertical:

attachment.php

attachment.php


Exhaust:

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0784.jpg
    IMG_0784.jpg
    60.4 KB · Views: 436
  • IMG_0785.jpg
    IMG_0785.jpg
    66.8 KB · Views: 435
  • IMG_0786.jpg
    IMG_0786.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 432
  • IMG_0787.jpg
    IMG_0787.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 431
  • IMG_0788.jpg
    IMG_0788.jpg
    42.1 KB · Views: 430
  • IMG_0789.jpg
    IMG_0789.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 436
I don't think that a 2" hole on top of the box is sufficient for drafting the exhaust.

That's what I'm thinking too. I feel like there's plenty of intake damping with being able to use the lid as well, even though I lose some heat that way.

Next question. Is 4" big enough? Much bigger than that and I'm going to have to come up with a gas axe because I don't think I want to drill that with a hole saw.
 
Need atleast 4” on vertical. I would also re do damper on firebox to all be on one side. Using lid hurts you as it lets out valuable heat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So first, thank you guys who have responded. This gave me the courage to poke a hole in my new toy.

I drilled a new 4-1/8" hole (don't judge, it's what I had :)) and fired it up. It was pulling through the cook chamber without opening any of the doors, before I was done lighting my coals. Wind is currently 8-16 and it's drawing well. Where I was having trouble getting above 200 before, I'm easily hitting 275 now. Even having to adjust dampers on the firebox now with the lid fully closed.

I'm not ready to call it perfect, but I at least fell like I can throw some more cheap meat at it and not worry about having to buy pizza.
 
Yeah cutting that hole solved majority of problem. Do long test to see how she reacts. Then make small mods if needed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I ran it for about 3 hours, which was enough time to add several splits. Winds varied between nothing and about 16. It seemed to run well through all of it. Bonus is that the vertical chamber gets to actual useful temperatures for other than cheese. Gonna try a butt this weekend and I'll be sure to report back.
 
Firebox to cook chamber hole is too small (instead of 4.5"ish round make it 4.5"ish tall x 8-10" wide) and I would open up exhaust size to 4" add a smoke stack - 6-8-10" tall


what did you drill out to 4 1/8" ? - you drilled bigger exhaust hole ?

.
 
Last edited:
What is the fibrous looking stuff around horz to vert opening? My thoughts are #1. The combined volume of horz + vert looks oversize compared to firebox. #2. Heated air and smoke are moving too fast through horz. (I know,I know you said theres not enough draft but bare with me ). To offset/overcome large volume of combined chambers,I'd insulate as much skin as could be easily done. 4'x8'x 1/4" cement board siding/soffit is one of many choices. 1/2 to 3/4 inch space between skin and insulation for dead air space will increase insulating value. Regarding fast flow through horz,lets try a simple solution. In the absence of a "gas ax" :biggrin1: an old fasion saber saw comes in handy for thin metal. If its open BELOW grate as it looks to be, I'm thinking a piece of 20 ga scrap like a furnace door cut to fit horz to vert opening ABOVE meat grate. This should swirl air and smoke in horz resulting in higher and more even temperature accross horz. It sounded like you don't trust accuracy of the thermometer so in the absence of a known accurate one for comparison heres a test. Boiling water is 212f adjusted for altitude but 212 is plenty close for this purpose.
 
Firebox to cook chamber hole is too small (instead of 4.5"ish round make it 4.5"ish tall x 8-10" wide) and I would open up exhaust size to 4" add a smoke stack - 6-8-10" tall


what did you drill out to 4 1/8" ? - you drilled bigger exhaust hole ?

.

Right now it's working well. Maybe a little inefficient, but not horrible. I'm going to try a couple cooks with this setup and maybe start tweaking again after that. That hole struck me as small also.

Yes, I added a 4+" exhaust hole.
 
What is the fibrous looking stuff around horz to vert opening? My thoughts are #1. The combined volume of horz + vert looks oversize compared to firebox. #2. Heated air and smoke are moving too fast through horz. (I know,I know you said theres not enough draft but bare with me ). To offset/overcome large volume of combined chambers,I'd insulate as much skin as could be easily done. 4'x8'x 1/4" cement board siding/soffit is one of many choices. 1/2 to 3/4 inch space between skin and insulation for dead air space will increase insulating value. Regarding fast flow through horz,lets try a simple solution. In the absence of a "gas ax" :biggrin1: an old fasion saber saw comes in handy for thin metal. If its open BELOW grate as it looks to be, I'm thinking a piece of 20 ga scrap like a furnace door cut to fit horz to vert opening ABOVE meat grate. This should swirl air and smoke in horz resulting in higher and more even temperature accross horz. It sounded like you don't trust accuracy of the thermometer so in the absence of a known accurate one for comparison heres a test. Boiling water is 212f adjusted for altitude but 212 is plenty close for this purpose.

I have a thermoworks smoke that pretty accurate. I didn't have it in there because there wasn't a bung and the doors would have pinched the cord. Bung is added. I'm seeing about 100*F difference between the thermoworks next to the meat and the suspect analog on the door. I'm not super worried about that right now, but I do suspect it's quite a bit hotter up high because of exactly what you said about blocking the hole above the grate. I'm feeling like that might be my next tweak to see what happens to temps across. Also wouldn't mind adding another rack above the primary rack for chicken/sausage/whatnot.
 
As mentioned before. It looks like you didn't have a big enough exhaust and you don't have a large enough hole from the firebox to the cook chamber. Doesn't look like you have enough air intake either and you need dampers on the intake(s) to control airflow. A bit of a stack will help/won't hurt but your vertical is acting as somewhat of a stack so you don't need a huge stack. However a stack with a damper is nice to have so you can shut off the airflow along with the intake damper(s) and smother the fire when thru cooking. Also with a stack you can place a can or bucket over the stack when not cooking to keep the rain out.

When making the hole from the firebox to the cook chamber larger make sure you leave a lip to keep grease from being able to run into the firebox.

Find Feldon's Calculator at Feldon Central. Then run your pit numbers thru it and go from there before going any further.

If you don't have grease drains you need to add one at the lowest point of both the horizontal and vertical cook chambers. I'd add them away from the firebox and tilt the cooker slightly away from the firebox. Doesn't have to be big holes and it's nice to be able to hang a catch bucket under them. Also nice to have a valve on them to keep the waspies out.

Ooops. ETA - Get some good thermometers on the pit near grate level in the horizontal. One of 'em toward the firebox and one toward the vertical. Also get one in the upper third of the vertical. TelTrue and Ashcroft make good therms. Be sure to boil and ice water test them. You will most likely find the vertical is near useless for cooking unless you put tuning plates in the horizontal. Even then it will likely run cooler than the horizontal.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top