OK...The chainsaw for proper length splits solved the problem!!

cayenne

is one Smokin' Farker
Joined
Jun 12, 2004
Location
New Orleans
Alright, well, this weekend I wanted to play with fire again on the new smoker.

This time, I had the Black and Decker Electric Lopper Chainsaw:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BANMUY

I pulled it out and actually read the instructions (no one was looking, thank God).....

And fired it up and cut my splits to about 12" or so I think.

Anyway, by doing this...I was easily able to light a fire AND maintain temps for the most part.

I had saved the butcher paper that I'd wrapped my last brisket with...used that to start the fire and it was perfect!!!

Actually the only REAL problem I had...was getting the temperature UP high...I struggled to get above 250F...

But I'm still learning, but perviously...I had a hard time just keeping the darned thing LIT....so, anyway.

As many here had been preaching....wood split dimensions matter!!!

Thanks for the great advice on that!!

No real pics of my cook this week...but I did a Pork Butt...I split that one and will pull it this morning, I took it off last night still in foil and let rest in an ice chest overnight, layered in towels.

I also did my first try with BB ribs on the new stick burner. I think I got pretty good results.

I could not find a spray gun anywhere in the house, so I wasn't able to spritz anything...

Regarless, I got decent results out of my ribs...I seemed to have successfully rendered all the fat and collagen...no big GLOBS anywhere (I hate that)...I would have liked them just a touch more tender, but that's likely nit picking.

I did them about 4 hours nekkid, then wrapped in some butcher paper with a bit of smoked tallow I had, and a glug or two of some home made hard cider....and put back on till about 180F.

I also spatchcocked a chicken, just simply rubbed it down with Tony Chacherie's creole seasoning ( the Lawery's of Louisiana).....and smoked it.

I ate a wing last night and a few ribs. I'm quite happy with my progress.

Well, 'tis Monday and time to chow on leftovers this week...ya'll have a great Monday!!

cayenne
 
I’ve only fired up my bss, to season the inside, once since I received the smoker. I had no issues getting it above 450 during the seasoning and maintaining that temp. Is your wood green?
 
I don't think so...?

I’ve only fired up my bss, to season the inside, once since I received the smoker. I had no issues getting it above 450 during the seasoning and maintaining that temp. Is your wood green?

I don't think it is very green...it seemed to catch and burn well once I got the splits cut more to a 12" or so size and could stack it properly in there.

But man, I dunno, the only time I got it up to over 350F when seasoning mine...I had that thing so stuff with wood....

I thought most people with these offsets, once they got a bed of coals only had to do 1 split on average every 45 min to keep at 225-250F....and from that I extrapolated to think for 300F or so I'd only need maybe 2 splits in to maintain it.

But so far, unless I load the thing up I can't hardly break 300-325F at all for even a short period of time.

And I live in New Orleans....I'm not talking cold temperatures outdoors...



OH, and back to the chainsaw....I've never really used one. This thing in the instructions said it needs to be fed a special oil ever 10 minutes of use.

Is that normal?
 
I don't think it is very green...it seemed to catch and burn well once I got the splits cut more to a 12" or so size and could stack it properly in there.

But man, I dunno, the only time I got it up to over 350F when seasoning mine...I had that thing so stuff with wood....

I thought most people with these offsets, once they got a bed of coals only had to do 1 split on average every 45 min to keep at 225-250F....and from that I extrapolated to think for 300F or so I'd only need maybe 2 splits in to maintain it.

But so far, unless I load the thing up I can't hardly break 300-325F at all for even a short period of time.

And I live in New Orleans....I'm not talking cold temperatures outdoors...



OH, and back to the chainsaw....I've never really used one. This thing in the instructions said it needs to be fed a special oil ever 10 minutes of use.

Is that normal?


You must keep the chain lubricated, so yes that's normal.
Any hardware store carries chain oil.
 
How thick are your splits? Most of mine have about the circumference than a soup can but that’s bc I’m using wood I had cut from my Oklahoma Joe smoker.i haven’t used any any bigger splits yet but I would think the bss could handle the thicker splits
 
Thickness

How thick are your splits? Most of mine have about the circumference than a soup can but that’s bc I’m using wood I had cut from my Oklahoma Joe smoker.i haven’t used any any bigger splits yet but I would think the bss could handle the thicker splits

Hello!!

Hmm..well, most of mine are a bit thicker than a soup can, but they vary. I do have a wood splitter for some that are too thick for my chainsaw (which is small).

Kindling Cracker XL:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725RRRS5


I guess on average my splits as delivered are about 4" diameter?

The thickness isn't my problem, the length is...hence needing to cut them down with the chainsaw for the BSS.

I'm seeing that about 12" length splits seems to work the best for me so far!! I can readily stack them.

I can put two long uncut logs in on the bottom running the length of the firebox, but I need the shorter ones to stack horizontally...the logs I got came were 18"-24" in length.

Does that help answer your questions?

C
 
[/B]

You must keep the chain lubricated, so yes that's normal.
Any hardware store carries chain oil.

For my lopper chainsaw, I fill the reservoir with canola oil, which seems to work fine, and that way I don't worry about non-food grade oils in my firewood.

But there's so little oil transferred to the wood that I don't think it really matters either way.
 
Cool!!!

For my lopper chainsaw, I fill the reservoir with canola oil, which seems to work fine, and that way I don't worry about non-food grade oils in my firewood.

But there's so little oil transferred to the wood that I don't think it really matters either way.

OH wow!!

Thank you!!

I had seen in the instructions that it alluded to using vegetable oils in some circumstances....but I figured that was for some outlier conditions....but I'd much rather use something I can readily grab at any grocery store rather than having to make a special trip out to Lowe's or Home Depot for the chainsaw oil there.
 
OH wow!!

Thank you!!

I had seen in the instructions that it alluded to using vegetable oils in some circumstances....but I figured that was for some outlier conditions....but I'd much rather use something I can readily grab at any grocery store rather than having to make a special trip out to Lowe's or Home Depot for the chainsaw oil there.

maybe it's cuz of where I live (NW AL) but even gas stations have bar oil around here. of course walmart does, no need to make a special trip really. and realistically just about any oil can be substituted for proper bar oil, motor oil is fine for instance. but a thicker gear oil is better. you use so little of it that buying a quart and leaving it in the garage/barn is fine, I feed 3 saws (small trim saw, 24" bar stihl pro, and a stihl pole saw) so I keep a gallon jug of it around. it's also pretty cheap in comparison to the alternatives, gallon jugs are $10 so I'd just grab a gallon next time you're around any kind of shop. rural king, tractor supply, Home depot, lowes, walmart, etc.

just my .02
 
A couple things, and full disclosure I have not read the entire thread as I'm at work, so if I missed something, I apologize.

I have the same smoker, and I purchased the same lopper chainsaw, just a different version. I have the battery powered version. I love it, it works great and is way safer then the miter saw I started using prior. Let a miter saw buck on you and you'll realize real quick it's not safe for cutting wood splits, it's meant for lumber. The lopper saw works great.

I know you said you have a kindling cracker, and i have one too, but I also have a mini electric log splitter. I much prefer it to the kindling cracker as I've had some splits where the kindling cracker just would not split them no matter how hard I pounded on them. I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56208-6-...ocphy=9032425&hvtargid=pla-1681302903031&th=1

Between this and the lopper saw I can process wood to any size I need, and with the kindling cracker I can take thinner splits to make actual kindling if/when I need it. I can't recommend that splitter highly enough. If you're gonna run an offset, it pays to have the tools you need to make life easier. In that vein, I also recommend a small leaf blower, which helps to get things going when you start your fire.

On split size, on my BSS, I use full size 16" splits, not 12". My splits are generally about 3" thick, and I have found that I prefer splits from the outside of the log with bark, not from the heart, and while they are well seasoned, they are not too dry. I like about 15-20% moisture on the moisture meter. Once you get some experience under your belt you will be able to tell just by picking up a slit and feeling the weight if it's right, or if it's too wet still, or to dry. The ones that are too dry, I use those if I need to get my temp up as they will give a lot of heat for a short amount of time. The ones that are too wet, I will split them down one more time and see if that feels workable, if not I'll stick then aside and let them continue to dry.

And one last tip, It also helps to pre-heat your splits. When I get ready for a smoke I take 5-6 splits and sit them on top of my firebox. Every time I add a split to the fire it comes from those that are preheating, and I add another on top of the firebox to keep that chain going. Splits ignite almost immediately when they go in the firebox after being pre-heated.

Hope this helps. And trust me, once you have some time under your belt all of this will become second nature, especially if you have the right tools to help you process wood to different sizes and thicknesses.
 
Back
Top