- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Location
- St. Louis, MO
16adams bait, well played.
Try the vinegar first. No joy try the lye. Still no joy I'd try sand blasting with, hell brain fart - what is the more mildly abrasive material, walnut shell or something?
Electrolysis looks like a fun/easy way to clean off the rust.
Brief snippet and link at the end...
For our purposes, electrolysis cleaning works somewhat like chrome plating in reverse. By connecting the positive and negative wires the opposite of the plating process, you get crud and rust removal.
The most common set up for an electrolysis iron cleaning tank involves a plastic storage container or the like, sturdy enough to be capable of holding eight or more gallons of water, and a car battery charger. You'll need a piece of metal, either iron or steel, that will serve as a "sacrificial anode" to which the electrical current will flow from the piece being cleaned.
You'll also need turn the water in the tank into what's called an electrolyte, making it more conductive so the current will flow more readily through it. For this, we use Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda™ (not baking soda), available in the laundry additives section (medium size yellow box), at the rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Washing soda is primarily sodium carbonate, whereas baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Some people use a swimming pool water conditioner called pH+, which consists of sodium carbonate. Some advanced hobbyists use sodium hydroxide aka lye to achieve a double-acting electrolyte/cleaning solution, but for most, the simpler and less-hazardous washing soda will do.
Gallons of Water --------------Washing Soda
05-------------------------5-10 T. -----1/3 - 2/3 C.
10-------------------------10-20 T.-----2/3 - 1-1/3 C.
15-------------------------15-30 T.-----1 - 2 C.
20-------------------------20-40 T.-----1-1/3 - 2-2/3 C.
25-------------------------25-50 T.-----1-2/3 - 3-1/3 C.
To properly connect the voltage source, you just have to remember the blacK (negative) wire goes on the sKillet. Also, the battery charger you use must be a manual one, or have a manual charge mode. An automatic charger will see the electrolysis tank as a charged battery and shut itself down.
https://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php
Use a wire wheel and an electric drill, simple and inexpensive, then season it. Speaking from experience
Please don't sandblast it. Wire wheel is the most aggressive thing you should ever consider.
Also, no self-cleaning ovens and especially DO NOT throw it into a fire.
Electrolysis looks like a fun/easy way to clean off the rust.
Brief snippet and link at the end...
For our purposes, electrolysis cleaning works somewhat like chrome plating in reverse. By connecting the positive and negative wires the opposite of the plating process, you get crud and rust removal.
The most common set up for an electrolysis iron cleaning tank involves a plastic storage container or the like, sturdy enough to be capable of holding eight or more gallons of water, and a car battery charger. You'll need a piece of metal, either iron or steel, that will serve as a "sacrificial anode" to which the electrical current will flow from the piece being cleaned.
You'll also need turn the water in the tank into what's called an electrolyte, making it more conductive so the current will flow more readily through it. For this, we use Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda™ (not baking soda), available in the laundry additives section (medium size yellow box), at the rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Washing soda is primarily sodium carbonate, whereas baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Some people use a swimming pool water conditioner called pH+, which consists of sodium carbonate. Some advanced hobbyists use sodium hydroxide aka lye to achieve a double-acting electrolyte/cleaning solution, but for most, the simpler and less-hazardous washing soda will do.
Gallons of Water --------------Washing Soda
05-------------------------5-10 T. -----1/3 - 2/3 C.
10-------------------------10-20 T.-----2/3 - 1-1/3 C.
15-------------------------15-30 T.-----1 - 2 C.
20-------------------------20-40 T.-----1-1/3 - 2-2/3 C.
25-------------------------25-50 T.-----1-2/3 - 3-1/3 C.
To properly connect the voltage source, you just have to remember the blacK (negative) wire goes on the sKillet. Also, the battery charger you use must be a manual one, or have a manual charge mode. An automatic charger will see the electrolysis tank as a charged battery and shut itself down.
https://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php
Why? I have restored a bunch of cast iron pans with a sand blaster. You can buy 3 grades, Fine, Medium, and coarse. You can also adjust your Air compressor to the right PSI. I would like to hear your reason, because if not, im going to assume user error.
Do you know the history of that pot? It looks like a plumbers lead pot to me, I have one just like it. Our high voltage guys used it for making HV splices.
I deal in collectable vintage iron. Period. Anything that changes the face of the iron itself is strictly off limits. That includes wire wheels that are aggressive enough to leave scratches and also blasting of any sort.
Plain and simple. There are better ways to take a vintage pan back to bare iron that don't affect the integrity of the piece. It is, after, a piece of history in your hands.
Now if you're talking about modern cast iron, do whatever makes ya happy. You can't lessen the value of that crap.