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Pitmaster T

Babbling Farker
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Location
Texas
In this, the Pennsylvania Railroad Dining. Car Department’s contribit-
tion to cookery, practical recipes are shown covering all specialties reflected
on our menus. Service Instructions are also included. RECIPES AND
INSTRUCTIONS SHOULD ALWAYS BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY TO
ASSURE BEST RESULTS AND SATISFACTION TO OUR GUESTS.
This is your copy of our cook book and as its preparation has taken a
great deal of time and involved considerable expense, you should take good
care of it.
We acknowledge and sincerely thank our Amen for the many recipes
and suggestions submitted that have aided us greatly in developing this book
and trust that it will prove an up-to-date and helpful guide to the excellence
of food preparation and the maintenance of a high service standard so
essentially important on the dining cars of The Pennsylvania Railroad.

SAUCES
The making of sauces to perfection is the greatest art in cooking. It requires a
thorough knowledge of all elements used, a practical and trained experience and
great delicacy of taste.
A Good stock or foundation must be prepared with care.
The Three sauces listed below, Cream, Espagnole and Tomato are the founda-
tion sauces, and are used daily in many of our recipes. Therefore every chef
should have at least ½ gallon of each, on hand at all times.
CREAM: INGREDIENTS:
1 cup of flour )
½ cup butter ) Makes a
2 quarts boiling milk ) half gallon
Salt )
PREPARATION: Melt butter in saucepan, then add flour and make a roux. Let
roux cook at least 10 minutes. Add the boiling milk gradually, stirring constantly
with egg whip to prevent sauce from getting lumpy. Cook for 30 minutes. Season
with salt only. Strain into a white jar and place small bits of butter on top of
sauce to prevent crust from forming on top.
ESPAGNOLE: INGREDIENTS:
3 veal bones (meat cut into small pieces, bones cracked)
1 quart jar sliced carrots
1 quart jar sliced onions
1 quart jar sliced celery
2 No. 3 cans stewed tomatoes
3 bayleaves
1 teaspoon thyme
8 whole allspice
4 whole cloves
2 pieces of garlic (chopped fine)
4 cups of flour
Salt, pepper and paprika
PREPARATION: Place meat and bones into roasting pan, dust with paprika.
Pour some clean fat over bones and meat, set pan into hot oven and brown
well, which will take about 1 hour. Then add the dry vegetables and spices
and braise together for at least 45 minutes more. Now dust everything with
the flour and leave in oven until flour is well browned. Remove and place in a
stock pot. Add the tomatoes and fill pot full of cold water, bring to boil, then
simmer for 10 to 12 hours, season with salt and strain.
NOTE: It is very important that the meat and bones, also the flour are properly
browned. If not, sauce will be of very poor color.
TOMATO: INGREDIENTS:
1 ham bone (meat cut into pieces, bones cracked)
2 kitchenspoons fat
1 teaspoon paprika
1 cup of flour
2 cups of celery )
2 cups of onions ) Chopped Small
2 cups of carrots )
6 allspice )
3 bayleaves )
4 cans whole tomatoes (No. 3) )
2 level kitchenspoons sugar )
gallon water ) Makes 1½ gallons sauce
Salt and pepper )
PREPARATION: Melt the fat in large sauce pan, add the meat bones, vege-
tables and paprika, then saute together until onions begin to get soft. Add the
flour and make a roux. Cook roux for 15 minutes. Add tomatoes, water, sugar
and spices. Bring to boil, then simmer until meat is soft and sauce is reduced
to 1 ½ gallon. Season with salt and pepper, then strain.
http://PRR.Railfan.net/documents 58
SAUCES, VARIOUS
APPLE: Peel and core 12 apples, cut them into quarters, put in saucepan with ½ cup
of water, cover and boil until soft. Then force through colander. Sweeten last, or
sauce will be too thin. Do not use artificial seasoning of any kind.
APPLE AND RAISIN COMPOTE: INGREDIENTS:
½ peck of apples (peeled, cored and cut into sections)
½ package of raisins (washed)
1 ½ cups of sugar
1 cup of water
PREPARATION: Make a syrup, from sugar and water, when clear add apples.
When apples come to boil, add the raisins and simmer until done.
NOTE: It is important that apples, when cooking is finished, remain in sections,
Therefore, slow cooking is absolutely necessary.
BORDILAISE: 4 shallots, minced fine and sauted in butter, add 2 cups of Espagnole,
½ teaspoon chopped parsley, ½ cup claret wine. Bring to boil, remove, then
add and stir in 1 tablespoon of raw butter.
BEARNAISE: REDUCTION:
INGREDIENTS:
12 white onions (minced)
½ kitchenspoon whole pepper (crushed)
1 bottle Taragon vinegar
1 bottle of water
PREPARATION: Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and cook until onions
have cooked to mush. Then pound through china cap and fill bottle. (It should
fill vinegar bottle to top, if there is more, reduce). Keep in chill box. When
ordered, add ½ teaspoon of the reduction to 1 sauceboat full of Hollandaise, also
a little chopped parsley and mix well.
BIGARADE: INGREDIENTS:
1 quart of Espagnole )
½ jar of currant jelly )
Juice of ½ orange ) When sauce is poured over the
meat, dish is decorated
Juice of ½ lemon ) with 4 sections of orange and
lemon.
Sections of orange )
Sections of lemon )
Rind of 1 orange (pulp removed, cut in fine julienne, then blanched)
PREPARATION Place orange and lemon juice into saucepan, heat, add jelly
and dissolve. Then add Espagnole and orange rind and bring to boil.
CAPER: Make a roux with ½ cup of flour, 1 kitchenspoon of butter. Let cook 10 min-
utes then add 1 quart of boiling strained broth, stirring constantly, and ½ cup of
cream. Cook 20 minutes, then strain in jar, add ½ bottle of capers and juice of
½ lemon (season to taste).
CREOLE OR SPANISH: Saute together with butter, ½ teaspoon paprika, 1 cup
each of sliced onions, green peppers and mushroms, until soft. Then add 3
cups of canned stewed tomatoes. Season with salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar, cover
and let simmer until thick.
No flour must be used to thicken this sauce, but reduce to proper consistency.
CUMBERLAND: Same as Bigarade, with the addition of s teaspoon of English
Mustard.
DIABLE: Saute in a little butter 1 finely minced onion (washed), until soft. Add 1
cup of vinegar, and let boil until reduced and nearly dry. Now add 1 finely
chopped dill pickle, 1 quart of Espagnole, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 1
teaspoon of dry mustard dissolved in a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce and let
come to boil. 59
SAUCES, VARIOUS (Continued)
EGG: INGREDIENTS:
1 quart of fish stock (seasoned and strained)
1 cup of cream
¼ cup butter
½ cup flour
3 hard boiled eggs (whites and yolks chopped fine)
PREPARATION: Make a roux and cook for 10 minutes then add boiling fish
stock, stirring constantly and the cream; boil slowly 25 minutes. Season with salt
and the lemon juice. Then strain into jar. When ready to serve, pour sauce over
fish and sprinkle eggs on top of sauce.
FINE HERBS: Saute 1 finely minced onion (washed) in a little butter. When soft,
add 1 pint of Espagnole and bring to boil. Finish with 1 tablespoon of chopped
parsley and 1 tablespoon of finely cut chives.
FIGARO: INGREDIENTS FOR 1 PINT:
1½ cup of mayonnaise
½ teaspoon anchovy paste
½ cup of tomato catsup
PREPARATION: Mix ingredients together in mixing bowl until smooth. This
sauce must always be served very cold.
FLAMANDE: Into a cup of hot melted butter, stir 1 teaspoon of French (prepared)
mustard, ½ teaspoon of chopped parsley.
CRANBERRY SAUCE:
INGREDIENTS:
1 quart of cranberries
2 cups of sugar:
2 cups of water
PREPARATION: Make a syrup from sugar and water, add cranberries and
cook them until they stop popping, about 12 minutes. Then pound through clean china
cap.
CRANBERRY COMPOTE: Ingredients and preparation same as for sauce, except, do
not pass them through china cap.
GASTRONOME: Same as Bordelaise, with the addition of ½ cup of finely chopped
and sauteed mushrooms.
HOLLANDAISE: In a double boiler work together ¼ cup of water and 3 egg yolks,
beat constantly with egg whip until emulsion is formed. Then take off fire, place
on working table and stir in ½ lb. of warm melted butter (like you work oil
into mayonnaise). Lastly add juice of half a lemon and season with salt. Larger
quantities in proportion.
HORSERADISH: Prepare foundation same as caper sauce, then add l kitchenspoon
of grated horseradish (if bottled horseradish is used, squeeze dry).
ITALIENNE: Saute in a little butter ½ cup of fine chopped ham, 1 minced onion
and ½ cup of finely chopped mushrooms. Then add 1 pint of Espagnole. Let
come to boil, simmer 10 minutes and finish with a teaspoon of chopped parsley.
MINT: Pick leaves from a bunch of fresh mint. Wash, then chop very fine. Boil
together for 15 minutes 1 cup water, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup vinegar and the mint
stems. Then strain through a clean cloth into a white jar. Let cool, then add
the chopped mint leaves. Do not cook the mint leaves.
MORNAY: INGREDIENTS:
1 pint of plain cream sauce
4 egg yolks
½ cup of cold water
1 kitchenspoon of grated cheese
½ teaspoon salt
http://PRR.Railfan.net/documents 60
SAUCES, VARIOUS (Continued)
PREPARATION: Into a double boiler, place the egg yolks and water. Bring to
boil, stirring constantly with egg whip until emulsion is formed, then add the
cream sauce. Beat well, lastly the cheese and salt. Keep in white jar in Bain
Marie. When ready to use, cover fish with sauce and brown quickly in hot oven.
It is not necessary to sprinkle additional cheese over sauce.
MUSHROOM: Saute in a little butter, 1 cup of sliced mushrooms (canned or fresh)
then add 1 pint of Espagnole and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from fire and
add 1 tablespoon of Sherry wine seasoning.
MUSTARD: Saute in a little butter 1 finely chopped onion, until soft. Add ½ cup of
vinegar, let boil and reduce until nearly dry. Now mix into the onion, 1 teaspoon
of English mustard and 1 pint of Espagnole. Season with salt and pepper; simmer
15 minutes and strain. Finish with 1 piece of table butter and ½ teaspoon of
chopped parsley.
PAPRIKA SAUCE: INGREDIENTS:
½ cup of minced raw ham
1 onion (chopped fine)
2 outside stalks of celery (chopped fine)
3 teaspoons of paprika
3 cups of cream sauce
1 cup of cream
Salt
PREPARATION: Saute the ham and paprika in a little butter for about 5
minutes, then add the onion and celery. Cover and braise 10 minutes more.
Finally add the cream sauce and cream and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with
salt, then strain into jar.
PARSLEY: To 1 pint of sauce made from fish stock, add 1 tablespoon of finely
chopped washed parsley and juice of ¼ lemon. Season with salt.
PIQUANTE: Same as diable, except leave out the mustard and Worcestershire sauce.
PINEAPPLE: Pour juice of 1 individual can of pineapple into saucepan. Also the
pineapple rings chopped fine. Bring to boil, then let the juice reduce half. Finally
add 1 quart of Espagnole. Bring to boil, simmer 5 minutes.
RAISIN: To 1 quart of Espagnole, add 1 cup of blanched raisins, 1 teaspoon sugar,
juice of ½ lemon and let come to boil. Then simmer for 10 minutes.
REMOULADE: INGREDIENTS:
1 quart of mayonnaise
3 dill pickles (chopped very fine, well drained)
½ bunch of parsley (chopped very fine, washed)
2 onions (chopped very fine, washed)
3 hard boiled eggs (whites and yolks, chopped fine, separately)
PREPARATION: Mix the pickles, onions and parsley well together in bowl.
Then add the mayonnaise and stir well. Lastly add the chopped eggs.
ROBERT: Same as Diable, except leave out the Worcestershire sauce only.
SOUBISE: Place 4 medium sliced onions into saucepan, cover with cold water and
cook until very soft. Then pound onions through china cap into a saucepan.
Add 1 pint of cream sauce to the puree. Season with salt and simmer for 5
minutes.
SHRIMP: INGREDIENTS:
1 quart of sauce (made from fish stock),
½ cup of cream
3 egg yolks
1 cup of cooked shrimps (shelled, cleaned and cut into small pieces)
PREPARATION: Saute shrimps, dusted with paprika, in a little butter. Add
cream sauce and simmer for 15 minutes. Lastly add the egg yolks beaten in the
cream. Mix well, bring to boiling point only, then remove from fire and pour
into white jar. 61
SAUCES, VARIOUS (Continued)
TARTAR: Same as Remoulade.
VINAIGRETTE: INGREDIENTS:
1 onion (chopped fine and washed)
1 dill pickle (chopped very fine)
1 tablespoon of parsley (chopped fine and washed)
1 hard boiled egg (white and yolk, chopped fine separately)
1 cup vinegar
2 cups oil
Salt and pepper
PREPARATIONS: Mix all the ingredients well together, then use as directed.
ZINGARA: INGREDIENTS
2 slices of boiled tongue ) All cut into
1 slice of boiled ham ) a very fine
3 fresh mushrooms ) Julienne
1½ pint of espagnole
1½ pint of tomato sauce
PREPARATION: Saute the ham, tongue and mushrooms in a little butter for
a few minutes, then add the Espagnole and tomato sauce. Let simmer ten
minutes.
SWEET SAUCES
CHOCOLATE SYRUP: INGREDIENTS:
2 individual packages of chocolate
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup water
PREPARATION: Place ingredients into small saucepan, mix well, then bring
to boil and simmer 1 minute. Set in ice to cool. Then pour into ½ pint milk
bottle. Cover and set in ice box, and use as directed.
FRUIT: INGREDIENTS:
I Ind. can of pineapple (cut into ¼ inch pieces)
1 orange cut into sections, each section in 3 pieces
1 banana (cut into ¼ inch pieces)
1 apple (peeled, cut into ¼ inch pieces)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup of sugar
1½ cups of water
PREPARATION: Pour juice of pineapple into saucepan, add water, sugar and
lemon juice. Bring to boil, then add the fruit and simmer for 10 minutes.
HARD: INGREDIENTS:
½ lb. butter
¾ cup of powdered sugar
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon of cream
2 teaspoons of vanilla
PREPARATION: Cream buter and sugar together in bowl. When smooth,
add egg yolks, then cream and vanilla. Beat well, roll in clean towel which
has been dusted with powdered sugar, set into ice box and use as directed.
LEMON: Bring to a boil, 1 pint of water with 1 cup of sugar and the grated rind
of 1 lemon. When boiling add a little cornstarch diluted with cold water
and bring to a boil. Remove from fire and add the juice of a lemon.
PINEAPPLE: To 1 cup of pineapple juice, add 1 cup of water, then juice of one
orange, 1 lemon and 2 cups of sugar. Cook 15 minutes, then thicken slightly
with a little cornstarch. Bring to a boil and add chopped pineapple. Pour over
pudding when served.
http://PRR.Railfan.net/documents 62
SWEET SAUCES (Continued)
RASPBERRY: Mix 1 quart of washed raspberries with 1 cup of sugar. Place into
saucepan. Then bring to boil only. Remove and pour into a jar.
STRAWBERRY: Mix together 1 quart of washed hulled strawberries and 1 cup
of sugar. Place into saucepan, then bring to boil only. Remove and pour into
a jar.
SABA??: INGREDIENTS:
4 egg yolks
¾ cup of sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup of sherry wine
PREPARATION: Beat egg yolks, sugar and lemon juice well together and
cook, stirring constantly with egg whip, until of proper consistency, then re-
move from fire and gradually stir in the sherry wine. When used with pine-
apple pudding, substitute the same amount of pineapple juice for the Sherry
wine.
VANILLA: INGREDIENTS:
2 cups of milk
½ cup of sugar
2 egg yolks
1 level kitchenspoon of flour
1 tablespoon vanilla
PREPARATION: Mix together in bowl, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla, then
add flour and lastly the milk, also a pinch of salt. Beat all the ingredients
well for a few minutes. Then strain through china cap, into a saucepan. Place on
range and bring to boil, beating constantly with egg whip.
B U T T E R S
THESE ARE USED IN ALMOST EVERY CASE WITH FISH, AND ALSO
OCCASIONALLY FOR BROILED MEATS, SUCH AS LAMB, VEAL OR MIN-
UTE STEAKS. IN MAKING THESE BUTTERS, USE AS A BASE, ½ LB.
BUTTER WHICH MUST BE CREAMED BY BEATING, NEVER MELTED.
MIX ALL INGREDIENTS WELL AND CHILL.
ANCHOVY BUTTER:
½ lb. butter
3 teaspoons Anchovy paste
BERCY BUTTER: I
½ lb. butter
1½ teaspoons each chopped chives and parsley
BATELIERE:
½ lb. butter
3 teaspoons chives, 1 of paprika
LEMON BUTTER:
½ lb. butter
juice of 1 lemon
HOTELIER BUTTER:
½ lb. butter
Same as Maitre d’Hotel
MAITRE D’HOTEL:
½ lb. butter
3 teaspoons chopped parsley
Juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce 63
BUTTERS (Continued)
PARSLEY BUTTER:
½ lb. butter
3 teaspoons chopped parsely
CRESS BUTTER:
½ lb. butter
3 teaspoons chopped watercress
Juice of ¼ lemon
TO CREAM BUTTER: Cut in small pieces and let stand at kitchen temperature
for a few minutes, then crush with a wooden spoon and stir until soft. After
creaming keep in ice box for use as needed.
POLONAISE BUTTER: Melt butter in black frying pan and add enough fresh
breadcrumbs as butter will absorb, then stir with spoon until crumbs are brown
and crisp.
 
salisbury steak stanley will make you go ????

Horseradish on bottom, then steak, then glazed banana... then tomato sauce???
 
What's this doing in Wood Pile? This should be in Q-Talk, ... oh, ... I get it. It's here for page 3. :pop2:

Now, where can I get myself a supply of watercress? It's not always in the stores. Is there a substitute?
 
I am amazed.... if you go to the link... its a typewritten manual but there are things that are interesting.....

for instance... the section marked "hot weather preparation."

In 1932 the cars for the most part had not been air conditioned. This would come sooner than you think.... in fact they are one of the first things air conditioned in the traditional way.... but the instructions are interesting.... soaking chicken pieces in vinegar for 5 minutes then draining before assembling the rest of what makes chicken salad.

When I started studying the ocean liner cooking techniques, I noticed there was a simplicity to the recipes but broader use of elements that we don't use today. You fix them and wow.... it is like an explosion in your mouth. And not the kind of explosion in your mouth bigabyte likes.

Notice the use of eggs in everything... I made a lemon pie using this recipe and was STUNNED by how good it was.

Why are these documents important.

Normally, the great hotels had a staff and chef that made everything. So if they had a manual, there essentially would be only one of them.

The recipes of the shipping lines and dinner trains were really the first time on a large scale that they wanted uniformity. This means if you grab the 2:00 AM Train from Chicago to Los Angeles or the 4:00 train the next week from LA to Omaha... the food you came to expect... say... the Salisbury steak with the mushroom sauce was exactly how it was cooked.

One of the requirements of the job as cook (chefs made the menus and recipes from the main offices) was that you new your measurements, and had good reading comprehension skills to follow the letter of the recipe to the "t," right down to the 9" plate and Doilies. Most all of the positions were filled by African Americans in those days. So a cook on a train was a position of great pride. The more satisfied the wait staff was... the more they got in the tip pool. But boy oh boy... your preps better be exactly like they write in the book. No improvisation unless it is at a customer's request.

This is why to this day there are no celery bits anywhere in Cracker Barrel Chicken and Dumplins. LOL

These trains.... say... in the 1950s... rolling stock and engine cost 2 million...
 
Awesome. I too think this should go in QT. That collection of sauces etc is a lost art.

So, now I gotta learn how to cook in a swaying train car? Will the challenges never end? LOL!

Eggs, butter, roux.............all that stuff sounds good to me.

Biga likes the creamy explosions. So I've heard.:shock:

Bob
 
Looking at the apple/raisin compote. I really like that flavor combo with some cinnamon. Thought about plopping some on that stuff on a short cake and then maybe a good scoop of real vanilla ice cream.
Man, just saw the Compound Butter recipes! Oh my!

Bob
 
What a find , Thanks !! I love older cookbooks ... Also some other cookbooks of historical note are " The Carolina Housewife by Sarah Rutledge " and " Charleston Receipts by the Charleston junior league 1950 " Brings one back in time....
 
I could stare at this equipment for hours. I could really get into every crevice and explore and work all the knobs, handles and buttons to see what they do.

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