Yeh, bacon drippings, except it is solid at room temperature and you would risk dogs stealing your chain saw. You need someting that has some weight to it like a heavy gear oil so it doesn't get flung off easily. That's the whole idea behind bar oil and chain oils. They need to adhear to the chain even while it is under centrificial force. Old french fry oil can be pretty thick. I'm going to try it with the next batch of old deep fry oil I come up with.
Kevin
Quintessential Chatty Farker
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2005
- Location
- Southern...
Put some fresh cracked pepper in there. It will act like the graphite in chain lube and help it stick.
Trout_man22
is Blowin Smoke!
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Location
- Colonial...
Don't try it unless it's an old saw and an bar/chain. Is it worth the $5.00 you'll save to ruin a $500 saw and a $80 bar/chain? To try old fryer oil? Just my .02
Wish I had a $500 saw. My last one I got for $10 at a garage sale, practicaly new. Little thing though. Great for limbs. Yeah, I don't know about that french fry oil thing either. You might get a bunch of people hanging around wanting you to super size everything.
HOO-
I love your avatar.
"Understated elegance", fer sure :-D
BOT--I use oil, real oil, on my chain saw bar.
Works for me.
TIM
I love your avatar.
"Understated elegance", fer sure :-D
BOT--I use oil, real oil, on my chain saw bar.
Works for me.
TIM
Trout_man22 said:
Where do you buy this stuff Trout? Never heard of it. I bought a gallon of Poulan brand bar oil at Wally World back in the spring for $2.48. Still gots plenty left. Good thick chit.
The only thing I dont like about the chain saw is the 1/4" - 3/8" kerf that it chews out. Good wood gone to sawdust on your shoe and in your shoe. I spent the better part of Saturday cuttin up an old oak that just flat arse died this summer for no reason. Big hollow in it. I cut up the limbs in about 8 -10" peices for my smoker. The big stuff is for my wood stove. I was really wishin I had a light sabor after just a short while. Wouldve gone faster, easier and no waste.
If it becomes saw dust, your chain needs sharpening! With a sharp chain you'll get plenty of chips but no dust. Remember, a sharp chain is a safe chain. Makes it easier for the doctor to reattach the limbs you cut off by mistake!!
Trout_man22
is Blowin Smoke!
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Location
- Colonial...
Neil said:
That is why I have the chaps made out of Kevlar. But you are correct you must have a sharp chain. Otherwise you will hurt yourself someday :sad:
I get the vegetable oil at Northern Supply, Tractor Supply, Lowes, HD, and about 30 other places. It normally the bottle that is a little more expensive.
Kevin
Quintessential Chatty Farker
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2005
- Location
- Southern...
Just saw a local add for a small husky (husqvarna) for $200. Good saws.
16" bar, 2.2 cubic inch engine.
Kind of small for a lumberjack, but plenty of saw for yard work and blocking up smoking wood.
16" bar, 2.2 cubic inch engine.
Kind of small for a lumberjack, but plenty of saw for yard work and blocking up smoking wood.
Trout_man22
is Blowin Smoke!
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Location
- Colonial...
Do you mean neophyte?
[Middle English, from Late Latin neophytus, from Greek neophutos : neo-, neo- + -phutos, planted (from phuein, to bring forth. See bheu
- in Indo-European Roots).]
I have several but the ones that never give me trouble are the Husqvarna's and the Stihl's a little more money but worth the price. If just for evey now and then get a small one 16" and call it a-day
Husqvarna chainsaw 137-P16 $185
http://www.southwestfastener.com/productsHusqChainsaw.htm
[Middle English, from Late Latin neophytus, from Greek neophutos : neo-, neo- + -phutos, planted (from phuein, to bring forth. See bheu
I have several but the ones that never give me trouble are the Husqvarna's and the Stihl's a little more money but worth the price. If just for evey now and then get a small one 16" and call it a-day
Husqvarna chainsaw 137-P16 $185
http://www.southwestfastener.com/productsHusqChainsaw.htm
I have owned Stihl, Huskivarna, McCullough, Sears, Johnsereds, Poulan and a couple of others and had problems with them all. I think it is the nature of the beast, the poor little things take such a beating. Imagine that poor little motor getting reved up to top rpms and then shoved into a pile of wood time after time. I'm supprised they last as long as they do. My last saw was a Huskivarna which I thought was going to be my last saw. I paid $300 for it. I don't use it much but I've already replaced the oiler. My favorite saw was a Stihl. It was a professional limbing saw. Little tiny thing. Looked like one of their littlest "home owner" saws but it was a kick ass, sooped up professional model. You could plunge the whole bar into a log nose first and it would keep reving. It was great. The thing didn't weigh anything. It did the work of a saw three times its size. I think If I were going to run out right now and buy a saw just for occasional use I would go to Costco and get a new Poulan for $135. Not a bad saw for the money. If you are going to spend some money on one, see what other people in your area are buying and get one from a local dealer. It's nice to have a shop you can take it to when it does break down.
I think not having a sharp blade leads to premature failure of the engine too. If it doesn't go through a green log like a knife through butter (well, almost), sharpen it. Plus, you will work much harder with a dull blade, leading to excessive beer consumption, possibly leading to the nickname "stumpy."
