Chicken Safety - Pasteurisation - Myths

JohnHB

is one Smokin' Farker
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Location
Sydney NSW
It seem that the many brethren hold a misconception that chicken to be safe must be cooked to a minimum of 165F. At 165F chicken is almost pasteurised instantly and is therefore considered safe. Consider this if you cook your chicken for 150F for about three minutes it is pasteurised to the same except as cooking it to 165F. This is demonstrated in chart shown here under. Obviously It is much more moist cooked to 150F versus 165F. But hey why listen to me I am a chartered accountant that likes to cook. So I have copied an article from a much learned source below. So stop the bull dust about food safety if you do not understand the science!
John

SERIOUS EATS
Sous-Vide 101: Low-Temperature Chicken
Posted by J. Kenji López-Alt, April 14, 2010
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.

Sous-Vide Chicken Breast

There is a misconception about food safety, and particularly as it applies to low-temperature water bath cooking (often inaccurately referred to as "sous-vide" cooking*). The thought process goes something like this:
*Sous-vide refers only to the vacuum-packing aspect, which, while it often goes hand in hand with low-temp water baths, it is not the defining characteristic of the cooking technique.
Point 1: Industry-standard food safety instructions refer to the range between 40°F and 140°F as the bacterial "danger zone," and recommend not allowing any foods to sit within that range for any longer than four hours.
Point 2: Low-temperature cooking often takes place in temperature ranges within this "danger zone." For example, cooking a steak for several hours at 130°F.
Conclusion: Low-temperature cooking is unsafe.
It seems reasonable to make such an assumption, but it ignores one important factor: industry standards for food safety are designed to be simple to understand at the expense of accuracy. The rules are set up such that anybody from a turn-and-burner at Applebee's to the fry-dunker at McDonald's can grasp them, ensuring safety across the board.
But for single-celled organisms, bacteria are surprisingly complex, and despite what any ServSafe chart might have you believe, they refuse to be categorized into a step function. A number of factors, including saltiness, sweetness, moisture, and fat content can affect growth, not to mention the effects of temperature are much more subtle.
For instance, take a look at the graph below. The data was taken directly from the USDA's guide to obtaining a 7.0 log10 relative reduction in salmonella in chicken. For those of you who don't know what a 7.0 log10 relative reduction is, it's the bacterial equivalent of sticking a stick of dynamite in an anthill. The vast majority of the baddies become harmless, dead, ex-baddies.
null_zps6864825e.jpg

Essentially, the red line in this graph indicates how long a piece of chicken needs to be cooked at a specific temperature in order to be deemed safe for consumption. So, for example, we see that at 165°F, the chicken is safe pretty much instantaneously (hence the 165°F minimum internal temperature recommendation by the USDA—they are being very conservative and assuming you will bite into it the second it reaches that temp). Whereas at 140°F, the chicken needs to be held for 35 minutes to be safe.
Now with a conventional oven, this chart is totally useless. Since your cooking environment is much higher than your desired final temperature there is no way to hold your meat at a steady low temperature—it hits 140°F, then continues to go up and up and up. So the best you can do is take the center to 165°F to ensure that the entire piece of chicken is safe to consume, by which point it's already expelled a great deal of its moisture.
Low-temperature cooking changes all of that. With a temperature-controlled water bath, you have the ability to not only cook chicken to lower temperatures, but more importantly, to hold it there until it's completely safe to consume.
What does this mean for a home cook? It means that you no longer have to put up with dry, 165°F chicken.
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Chicken cooked to 140°F, like the one in the photo above, is just as safe as chicken cooked to 165°F, and incomparably moister and more tender. It glistens with moisture as you cut it. It practically oozes juices into your mouth as you chew. Bad image, I know (sounds like the food writer's version of chewing with your mouth open), but it's the only way I can explain how much better chicken is this way.
Of course, straight out of the bag, the chicken has not reached temperatures high enough to precipitate the Maillard reaction, so you'll still need to finish it off on the stovetop. I cooked the chicken above on the skin-side in canola oil, though butter works well too.
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And as for skin and bone being on or off, I prefer to keep the skin on just because I love crispy skin, and browning chicken without skin will always leave you with a stringy layer, no matter what you do. Skin lets you brown without sacrificing texture.
I found little difference between chicken cooked bone-in vs. bone-off. With traditional cooking methods, the bone helps insulate meat from the high cooking temperatures. Not a problem with a water oven. Feel free to go boneless if you so desire.
Cooking at even lower temperatures is safe and possible, however at a certain point, the meat starts to take on an off-putting jelly-like texture. For me, 140°F has all the moisture I want without losing the feel of pan-roasted chicken.
Finally, the last drawback with cooking chicken in a water bath is that you develop very little fond—the flavorful browned bits that stick to your pan when you sear meat. The bad news is that this makes forming a pan sauce impossible. The good news is that the reason those flavorful bits aren't on the pan is because they are still right in the chicken where they belong. A sauce made from a separate stock or a vinaigrette-style dressing do my chicken just fine.
While the recipe that follows is easiest with a controlled water bath, feel free to use my cheap and easy cooler hack to do it ghetto-style.
Continue here for Sous-Vide Chicken with Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette »
Printed from http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/04/sous-vide-basics-low-temperature-chicken.html
© Serious Eats
 
Good luck John, And good article.
I've quoted food science here, along with the benefits of hot and fast and pulling at lower temps but until Kirk did it, zero traction.
I hope more people try it, makes for a far better result.
 
Very interesting. Would it be possible to bring chicken up to a certain temp in a smoker, transfer to a water bath to bring it up to 140, then sear it, and get the same benefits? (Along with the benefits of wood smoke, or, as in a UDS, wood and fat smoke.)
 
Very interesting. Would it be possible to bring chicken up to a certain temp in a smoker, transfer to a water bath to bring it up to 140, then sear it, and get the same benefits? (Along with the benefits of wood smoke, or, as in a UDS, wood and fat smoke.)

Cold smoke then water bath, sear then water bath are both very acceptable and used methods.
 
Very interesting. Would it be possible to bring chicken up to a certain temp in a smoker, transfer to a water bath to bring it up to 140, then sear it, and get the same benefits? (Along with the benefits of wood smoke, or, as in a UDS, wood and fat smoke.)

Titch is correct but why. Really if you bring your product by smoker to 150F & hold for a few minutes (3-4) it is pasteurised. Why do more!!!
John
 
I think that if all read my favourite poem before they started to revert to past tradition we could move forward.
John

The Calf Path
by S.W. Foss

One day, through the primeval wood,
A calf walked home, as good calves should;

But made a trail all bent askew,
A crooked trail as all calves do.

Since then three hundred years have fled,
And, I infer, the calf is dead.

But still he left behind his trail,
And thereby hangs my moral tale.

The trail was taken up next day,
By a lone dog that passed that way.

And then a wise bell-wether sheep,
Pursued the trail o'er vale and steep;

And drew the flock behind him too,
As good bell-wethers always do.

And from that day, o'er hill and glade.
Through those old woods a path was made.

And many men wound in and out,
And dodged, and turned, and bent about;

And uttered words of righteous wrath,
Because 'twas such a crooked path.

But still they followed - do not laugh -
The first migrations of that calf.

And through this winding wood-way stalked,
Because he wobbled when he walked.

This forest path became a lane,
that bent, and turned, and turned again.

This crooked lane became a road,
Where many a poor horse with his load,

Toiled on beneath the burning sun,
And traveled some three miles in one.

And thus a century and a half,
They trod the footsteps of that calf.

The years passed on in swiftness fleet,
The road became a village street;

And this, before men were aware,
A city's crowded thoroughfare;

And soon the central street was this,
Of a renowned metropolis;

And men two centuries and a half,
Trod in the footsteps of that calf.

Each day a hundred thousand rout,
Followed the zigzag calf about;

And o'er his crooked journey went,
The traffic of a continent.

A Hundred thousand men were led,
By one calf near three centuries dead.

They followed still his crooked way,
And lost one hundred years a day;

For thus such reverence is lent,
To well established precedent.

A moral lesson this might teach,
Were I ordained and called to preach;

For men are prone to go it blind,
Along the calf-paths of the mind;

And work away from sun to sun,
To do what other men have done.

They follow in the beaten track,
And out and in, and forth and back,

And still their devious course pursue,
To keep the path that others do.

They keep the path a sacred grove,
Along which all their lives they move.

But how the wise old wood gods laugh,
Who saw the first primeval calf!

Ah! many things this tale might teach -
But I am not ordained to preach.
 
Question. When you say it needs to be held at 140°F for 35mins, is that the the water bath temp or internal temp of the chicken? If its the chicken how do you determine when the internal temp hits 140°F to start your timer?
 
Question. When you say it needs to be held at 140°F for 35mins, is that the the water bath temp or internal temp of the chicken? If its the chicken how do you determine when the internal temp hits 140°F to start your timer?

Firstly if you re BBQing why consider 140F? If you are using water bath then check the tables available on Baldwin's web. With sous vide I cook turkey breasts for 4hours at 144F. They are pasteurised.
With my BBQ if I want to pasteurise when my Maverick records 150F I continue for around 5 minutes and I also know the chicken is pasteurised.
John
 
I'm not doubting this science, but just wanted to ask a question as I'm an idiot :razz:. So that temperature scale is just for sous vide? If so it is saying that if the water temp is 165 then pretty much as soon as the chicken is placed into the water bath it is pasteurized (basically a few seconds)? Does the size piece of chicken matter into this timing chart?
 
I'm not doubting this science, but just wanted to ask a question as I'm an idiot :razz:. So that temperature scale is just for sous vide? If so it is saying that if the water temp is 165 then pretty much as soon as the chicken is placed into the water bath it is pasteurized (basically a few seconds)? Does the size piece of chicken matter into this timing chart?

I think it means when the IT of the chicken hits 165 it's safe.
 
Thanks for the article, I always enjoy reading Kenji's articles on Serious Eats, his kitchen/grill tests always questions food myths that are out there, i.e. flipping a burger once vs multiple times
 
Thanks John for the Information. I am trying a water bath test right now @ 123 and rising want to see what my crock pot with water in it will max out at on warm
Jed
 
I think it means when the IT of the chicken hits 165 it's safe.

Thanks. That makes more sense. It was mentioned that "Essentially, the red line in this graph indicates how long a piece of chicken needs to be cooked at a specific temperature in order to be deemed safe for consumption." So I read that as 'when cooking at 165 the chicken is safe instantly'. But really once it hits 165 internally immediately the chicken is safe. Vs say once the internal temp hits 140 it needs to stay at 140 for at least 35mins to be pasteurized. At least that is how I'm reading it now......

See I am a little slow :loco:
 
Thanks. That makes more sense. It was mentioned that "Essentially, the red line in this graph indicates how long a piece of chicken needs to be cooked at a specific temperature in order to be deemed safe for consumption." So I read that as 'when cooking at 165 the chicken is safe instantly'. But really once it hits 165 internally immediately the chicken is safe. Vs say once the internal temp hits 140 it needs to stay at 140 for at least 35mins to be pasteurized. At least that is how I'm reading it now......

See I am a little slow :loco:

This chart falls pretty much in line with what Harry Soo was talking about on the BBQ central show awhile back. He was saying he takes his thighs to 145 or 150 (I don't recall) and holding them there for several minutes to make them "safe."
 
Titch is correct but why. Really if you bring your product by smoker to 150F & hold for a few minutes (3-4) it is pasteurised. Why do more!!!
John

The reason I asked if my complicated proposal (hot smoke--water bath--sear) would work is that I wondered if it might achieve something like the unique combination of unprecedented moistness and tenderness that's described in the article (combined with hot smoking flavor). If I brought chicken in my smoker up to 150 and held it for 4 minutes [glad to have that information, incidentally, in any event], I would certainly expect it to be more moist than mine usually comes out--but wouldn't expect it to be as tender as mine normally is, let alone anything like as tender as the chicken described, almost ecstatically, in the article. Or is there something (I hope) that I'm missing?

Thanks! I realize that a lot of the questions you're getting from us on this "new" and exotic subject are an unfortunate combination of ignorant and convoluted...
 
Thanks for the detailed info, very interesting article!

Cooking for myself is one thing but trying to serve "pink" chicken with that texture to others has (in my experience) been notoriously unsuccessful as they do not perceive it as "done". Right or wrong they want what they want and I make no effort to force my preferences on others. Much like rare steak it's not a taste shared by everyone subsequently I cook it they way they want it and keep my opinions to myself, nothing to be gained by disparaging a guest/customer. Nice to have a greater understanding of the science for those open to the experience however.
 
Thanks for the detailed info, very interesting article!

Cooking for myself is one thing but trying to serve "pink" chicken with that texture to others has (in my experience) been notoriously unsuccessful as they do not perceive it as "done". Right or wrong they want what they want and I make no effort to force my preferences on others. Much like rare steak it's not a taste shared by everyone subsequently I cook it they way they want it and keep my opinions to myself, nothing to be gained by disparaging a guest/customer. Nice to have a greater understanding of the science for those open to the experience however.

It's not "done" it is just less likely to make you sick.

That being said, I have yet to cut in to a waygu packer with out making a carpaccio from the deckle.
 
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