BGE Table "Plans"

hey look! an easy entry table!

if you haven't tried lifting an egg into a hole in a table, it ain't easy. you could make a removable piece to close in the U if you wanted. you also might glue the joints in addition to bolts/screws. that will give you some lateral stability
 
Looks good to me.
The round slot idea should make putting the eggs in a lot easier.
What about tools? Need any hooks or slots to hang tools.
 
Yep, doors in the middle. Is that a Corian top on yours tjv? Been toying with that idea.

Yes it's a Corian top. I found it at Habitat for Humanity's resale barn for $75. Dupont is very secretive on Corian but it is very easy to work with a router and good table or circular saw and Gorilla glue.

For daily use, it cleans up easily and the light color is cool to the touch during hot TX summers. The cabinet is handy for storing lump, grids and stones. If you can recess the drawers and cabinet a bit to limit exposure to water.

You can never have too much work surface.

T
 
I like the open front look better than the drop in. I really would like to tell you how impressed I am with those sketches Ron. We have an engineering department here at the shop with 6 drafts people and I think you could given them a run for their money!
 
You may need to put an "X" brace in the back/sides to stiffing the table along both dimensions, as there is no piece running both vertically and horizontally on the table. Might end up leaning.......not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.....LOL.

You might try to configure one of the sides to be big enough for an XL......ya just never know what the furture may hold. Or Craig's list offers......

Double check the 21 inch opening vs. the 16 inch height to make sure the opening is big enough, the egg's felt line height is where you want it and there is room for the spring mechanism above the table. Common mistake is forgetting to take into account how the egg will sit, using the egg feet with or without stone pavers and such.

If it is a solid surface table you might be ok. If it's a planked top you may have trouble supporting boards behind and along side the two openings. Just look at the table and think how or where will I nail the board ends.

On my corian top I put an OSB (roof decking) sheet underneath to give the Corian some support and rigidity. Might do that for the granite section. Could get tricky though dealing with moisture, rain.

Your table plan is very similar to my original set up, picks above. I'd bet a cold beer after a couple cooks you'll be looking for ways to find more work surface. The middle is 32" wide, or 16" per egg, one pan per egg and the space is gone. The table ends (end to 21 opening) are 11" inches wide, not really wide enough to do much with, except set tongs or dangle a pan on edge. Dangles get knocked off, not that I'm speaking from experience or anything. That is why I added the folding side shelves.....12 inch side shelves on each end increases the 11 inches to 23 inches and that is more room than you have in the middle (32 vs. 2 @ 23).

That's all I got on one cup of coffee.....good luck with the project. T
 
I like the open front look better than the drop in. I really would like to tell you how impressed I am with those sketches Ron. We have an engineering department here at the shop with 6 drafts people and I think you could given them a run for their money!

Awww... Shucks... :oops:

I do a lot of network drawings so I'm pretty familiar with Visio, so that's what i used for that drawin.

Ron,

You need help?

I am quite the craftsman.

I've been sending you PMs to help, but you don't answer :-D

You may need to put an "X" brace in the back/sides to stiffing the table along both dimensions, as there is no piece running both vertically and horizontally on the table. Might end up leaning.......not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.....LOL.

You might try to configure one of the sides to be big enough for an XL......ya just never know what the furture may hold. Or Craig's list offers......

Double check the 21 inch opening vs. the 16 inch height to make sure the opening is big enough, the egg's felt line height is where you want it and there is room for the spring mechanism above the table. Common mistake is forgetting to take into account how the egg will sit, using the egg feet with or without stone pavers and such.

If it is a solid surface table you might be ok. If it's a planked top you may have trouble supporting boards behind and along side the two openings. Just look at the table and think how or where will I nail the board ends.

On my corian top I put an OSB (roof decking) sheet underneath to give the Corian some support and rigidity. Might do that for the granite section. Could get tricky though dealing with moisture, rain.

Your table plan is very similar to my original set up, picks above. I'd bet a cold beer after a couple cooks you'll be looking for ways to find more work surface. The middle is 32" wide, or 16" per egg, one pan per egg and the space is gone. The table ends (end to 21 opening) are 11" inches wide, not really wide enough to do much with, except set tongs or dangle a pan on edge. Dangles get knocked off, not that I'm speaking from experience or anything. That is why I added the folding side shelves.....12 inch side shelves on each end increases the 11 inches to 23 inches and that is more room than you have in the middle (32 vs. 2 @ 23).

That's all I got on one cup of coffee.....good luck with the project. T

Good tips, Tom. Thanks. I'll give them some consideration. The 96" length is pushing the space I have available so I would have to put the Eggs closer together to get more space on the outside. I do have room to add a work table at 90 degrees to this table on the left end if i really need more space.
 
You may need to put an "X" brace in the back/sides to stiffing the table along both dimensions, as there is no piece running both vertically and horizontally on the table. Might end up leaning.......not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.....LOL.

i almost posted something about diagonal bracing last night. i think if you use two bolts per connection and glue it as well, any racking movement will be minimized and you won't need any bracing. i think...
 
i was just looking deep into the drawing and it isn't technically accurate :biggrin:

the right side view needs to have the horizontal 2x4's on the outside of the 4x4 posts, according to the plan view.

the front view shows the horizontal boards on the end as hidden, and they should be visible on the front view, unless the horizontal long 2x4 in the front laps them. the horizontal long side 2x4's are not shown on the top or right side views. you'll need upper and lower horizontal 2x4's on the long side.

other than that, it looks pretty good :biggrin:
 
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