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For close to 30 years, I have used a Lansky sharpening system to sharpen my knives. You get exactly the same angle on the edge every time. After the first sharpening, it is merely a matter of touching up the edge.:grin:
 
For close to 30 years, I have used a Lansky sharpening system to sharpen my knives. You get exactly the same angle on the edge every time. After the first sharpening, it is merely a matter of touching up the edge.:grin:

This. I'm not so good with stones but invested in the Lansky Delux system to put an edge on a santoku with a VG-10 core. Took a bit of work but now I have a perfect 17 degree bevel and it is frighteningly sharp, particularly after a strop on ferrous and chromium oxide
 
What do you guys think about this?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CFSOSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER"]Amazon.com: Fischer Bargoin 12-Inch Round Sharpening Steel Classic, Fine Cut: Knife Sharpeners: Kitchen & Dining@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21kJzikdXVL.@@AMEPARAM@@21kJzikdXVL[/ame]
I looked at some stones but not sure if I will be able to use it correctly. I think the steel may be easier to learn.
The Lansky looks intimidating.
 
A thing I was just reminded of by a PM, I actually rarely use my steel anymore. I prefer to strop my knives after washing, by using a wet piece of paper (I prefer newsprint) laid on top of my finest and flattest stone. Then I simply swipe the blade a couple of times, each side across the wet paper. Works great.
My grandfather used this method and I've watched him when i was younger. but that was 35 yrs ago.
 
...or my favorite but the most costly is CPM S35VN. That stuff holds an edge forever, doesnt rust, and has a very fine molecular structure so it can be scary sharp... good maintenance is key though.


Is that the relatively new steel that was made specifically for knives? I haven't had a chance at working with it yet. But, you have done me no favors by speaking so highly of it.:twisted::twisted:
 
Ben Dale will say to use a ceramic in between sharpening as it will not remove the micro serrations on your edge. He only recommends a steel in professional settings where the abuse is too much for a ceramic (drops, poor treatment, ect).

Diamonds are only for Ceramic and carbide blades and should never be used on steel.

He has many great youtube videos out there, Ill see if I can paste them up
 
The more I read the more I get confused. What do I need to keep a knife sharp and maintain its edge?

To sharpen a knife you need a stone of some kind - be it an artificial hone or natural hone. The general rule of thumb is to start at a low grit rating to establish the bevel then work your way up to higher grits, which refine the bevel and polish it. Maintaining the edge is done with a steel or a ceramic rod (the latter will sharpen, slightly) which essentially just realigns the edge after it has become bent through use

A steel or ceramic rod will do nothing for a dull knife, but for an already sharp knife it'll help hold that edge so it doesn't need to be honed as often

I would highly recommend the Lansky system, it's basically foolproof once you understand the mechanics of sharpening a blade. A blade is 90% sharpening and 10% steel. You can put some wicked sharp edges on very cheap knives and your Victorinox and Dexter Russel knives will be awesome once properly sharpened
 
I used to use the Lansky System, there are many others. They all work well.

That steel you showed is serrated, not a good idea. Lots of folks use them but, you have to be gentle. And that is the key, you could use a ceramic rod, although I don't like them, they are far better than 95% of the new steels on the market.

Personally, if you don't want to take up sharpening, consider Omar's (Retired Trucker) offer, then get a smooth steel, or even a ceramic rod and learn to use it. My technique is to hold the steel down and vertical. Then to slide the knife, along the edge at a slight angle, with just enough pressure that I can feel the push on the rod. Three time each side, one time each side. Wipe on a damp towel and let air dry. I steel after use, not before use.
 
Thanks for all the great info. I will read up more on the sharpening systems and stones. I appreciate Omar's offer and may take him up on it. I think I would really like to learn how to sharpen my knives so that I do not have to depend on anyone to do them for me.
For me, nothing is more frustrating that having a knife that is not sharp enough to slice tomato's, onions, etc.
 
No one mentioned the spyderco sharpmaker which I think is a very good knife sharpener. I use it on all my pocket and kitchen knifes and I like them sharp. I do use a smooth steel and a leather strop also.
This is regular printing paper after a sharpening on the sharpmaker.

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I don't like diamond steels either, the diamond grit tends to tear the edges up on a good edge. A steel works by simply taking the microscopic edge you create on the edge of the knife and straightening it. And abrasive material actually serrates that edge and leads to a rough cut, and a much faster dulling of the blade.

This is just my opinion, but, even a smooth steel rod is better than most steels sold on the market nowadays. Diamond chips, ceramic, serrations etc...all gimmicks to get people to buy something because most people never understood why the old steels were just smooth steel bars

Well put..... A good steel is all that is needed to align the blade before use.
 
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