Pitmaster T Explores - The MKT

IMG_0438.jpgHand Washing Sink

Okay so here is the story. I got this deal on the sink plus faucets for 99 bucks.

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I know where to get the side (I need a right) as well.

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So I was trying to figure out how was going to do it and I had 18 inches.

My neighbor throws out a little wooden computer desk made of solid woods.

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It was free so I started the mod.

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Hole cut

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Cut out - Out

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I used the keyboard shelf as a back to the sink... which is good as I need something to mount the back to.

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Rear Mount in

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A bit of a Darker Stain and about 5 days of thin coated poly.

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Angle Aluminum was used for front base.


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Stainless Screws

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Plumbing holes drilled

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Front Screwed in - again stainless


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All Done

Only regret is I have to remove some of the poly I accidentally slung on the inside of the sink.

I will be adding an extra wooden shelf or two on this. I think the Pump I may fasten to this piece. What is cool about it, is that since all my gear is modular, if I take these parts out to say.... do a tent event... it pulls right out. The hoses will be quick connect.
 
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So now the over all layout improvement.

Made lots of room for these modules.

The problem was... the M59 Ovens... which are removable. limit counter space on the non cook side. They are so so ovens and better for boiling large amounts of water... I decided to remove them because for one... I can always put them back should my job require them... or run them OFF deck (on the ground) independently or together. But for most of what I want to do... with the traffic flow on one side and cooking on the other... removing them gets me room... and lots of it. As you can see here... NOT much room.

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On the other side is a small 18 inch cabinet that I wanted to turn into a sink for handwashing... BUT>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be better used as an ice well.

I also have this...shown at the end in the middle
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This cabinet floats and is always in the way. Well what do you know if I combined all three I have a crap load of counter.
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Anyway you already saw what I did with that - I installed my Warming Drawer in there and it will probably house my electrics... batteries, charger, that kind of stuff.
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Overall this is what my space looks like now that I removed the ovens and popped in those cabinets.

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I think you can see why this needs to be the ice well now.

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So I took this piece from the other side - where that Hand Washing sink will be....

and started to mod it
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Drilled Hole for drain... which is tough for Stainless but I got it.
Installed drain

Insulated it. I forgot to take other pictures apparently but the bottom was covered in sheet foam insulation and also packed with expandable foam so now the ice well is insulated. All I need to do is trim some of the rims to accept my stainless pans that will hold pickles, onions, lettuce whatever.
 

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looking good!!! I love the purple panties I mean frame.

Going back to your battery configuration. Have you figured out the wiring? I assume the converter/charger is 12V so it cant be used to charge a set of series wired batteries unless you have two 12V chargers or one 24V charger.

I used to wire up lowrider hydraulic systems for a buddy of mine and one of the systems he designed was a 24 volt system that only required 1 extra battery in the trunk. During normal driving the batteries would be connected in parallel so the alternator would charge both batteries. Once the hydraulic system was used the batteries were connected in series. I used a series/parallel switch to pull this off and it worked great. It may or may not work for you, is your 24 volt demand continuous or constant?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281382837157?lpid=82&chn=ps
 
looking good!!! I love the purple panties I mean frame.

Going back to your battery configuration. Have you figured out the wiring? I assume the converter/charger is 12V so it cant be used to charge a set of series wired batteries unless you have two 12V chargers or one 24V charger.

I used to wire up lowrider hydraulic systems for a buddy of mine and one of the systems he designed was a 24 volt system that only required 1 extra battery in the trunk. During normal driving the batteries would be connected in parallel so the alternator would charge both batteries. Once the hydraulic system was used the batteries were connected in series. I used a series/parallel switch to pull this off and it worked great. It may or may not work for you, is your 24 volt demand continuous or constant?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281382837157?lpid=82&chn=ps


You are put in my path for a reason. Like I said the original converter I have that came with the unit is one of these. $_57 (5).jpg

Now I have 6 Diesel fueled burners... I typicall would use no more than 4 and 8 repair kits so I am not too worried about the burners. Its the power supply I worry about. I can get you the specs. But essentially is cost the govt thousands because is low noise (radio) apparently as not to give way your position and find another one working is about 750 if you are not in a bidding war. The MBU (Modern Burning Units) run off 24 V as they are NATO compliant.

I spoke with many on the Steel Soldier's forum and many who do not run these with the original converter use two batteries. Typically they don't even connect a charger until they are done.

So there is my idea on that.

Now I heard - and I could be wrong.. you can run 24 volt AND have a 12 volt simultaneously. This is a must as the pump is 12 volt, the radio, and the siren... and maybe some lighting if I need it in a pinch.

It becomes more problematic from what I understand when you begin charging them.

So any help is welcome. What I need is a guy that if I give him the draw specs he understands the math that is needed as well.
 
MBU burners run off of diesel... super cheap.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QrCyHViPqA&index=12&list=PL-FMdthfYNpRRIK_a_wY64CCBNgEQoIyr"]Popdaddy's Canteen: MKT MBU V3 Fuel Up - YouTube[/ame]
 
You are put in my path for a reason. Like I said the original converter I have that came with the unit is one of these. View attachment 106192

Now I have 6 Diesel fueled burners... I typicall would use no more than 4 and 8 repair kits so I am not too worried about the burners. Its the power supply I worry about. I can get you the specs. But essentially is cost the govt thousands because is low noise (radio) apparently as not to give way your position and find another one working is about 750 if you are not in a bidding war. The MBU (Modern Burning Units) run off 24 V as they are NATO compliant.

I spoke with many on the Steel Soldier's forum and many who do not run these with the original converter use two batteries. Typically they don't even connect a charger until they are done.

So there is my idea on that.

Now I heard - and I could be wrong.. you can run 24 volt AND have a 12 volt simultaneously. This is a must as the pump is 12 volt, the radio, and the siren... and maybe some lighting if I need it in a pinch.

It becomes more problematic from what I understand when you begin charging them.

So any help is welcome. What I need is a guy that if I give him the draw specs he understands the math that is needed as well.

You are correct you can pull 12 volts from one battery in a 2 battery series bank (this will however create an uneven charge between the batteries). Charging is the problem and the series/parallel switch I mentioned wont work since you need both 12 and 24 volts continuously. The original converter you have is rated at 600 watts at 26 volts that's only about 23 amps. You could use one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROGRESSIVE...ERTER-BATTERY-CHARGER-PD9240-24-/151471833695 or even the 25 amp version but for the price difference I would go with the 40 amp unit.
 
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My Triad TU 730?

That's odd. when I removed it from the Camper it was set up from the facotry to charge the set of dual batteries.
 
I was referring to this one 26V@600 Watts.

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Your old triad TU730 was probably charging two batteries wired in parallel, can't see the spcs on that one.
 
Thats the one I refuse to use... if I wanted to use it, i wouldn't need the batts and charger. Its too valuable to use. It won't charge a battery anyway.

Scroll up and you will see the camper charger I had from the ****otorium.

Won't that work? I seriously do not know.
 
Yes it was... I see your point. 24 volts charging is a lot more different than 12 volt.

I need 12 volt and 24 simultaneously.
 
Yeah 20 amps seems high but it has an input rating of 1300 watts which could exceed the typical 15 amp outlet. The PD9225-24 is only rated at 750 Watts input.
 
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