My UDS Build

[Skidkid]

So I decided to move ahead with a UDS first while I consider what to do for a new cooker. I know it flies in the face of the entire UDS idea but being a guy who always wants the best and fanciest I have embarked on this project.

I got a drum. I used a propane weed burner to burn the paint. Then I used a polycarbonate stripping wheel on my angle grinder to take the barrel to bare metal. The uneven marks are not dents, those are grind marks from the wheel.

I ordered a bunch of various parts, they are on their way and you will see them as it unfolds.

In the mean time: I have my first challenge. The lid isn't flat but has two ridges running around. They aren't too high, about 1/8", but they make the hinge not sit flat. That leaves me with a couple of options.
1) Just bolt it on and use washer to shim. Sorry but I just can't bring myself to do this approach.
2) Use 1/8" aluminum stock and my belt sander to shape the curvatures so they fit nicely. Basically custom shims. This would work but the ridges are not square edges so it will look slightly odd.
3) Use clay to build a fence and pour an aluminum shim, let it cool, then remove the clay fence. Think, pottery clay so it takes the heat easily. And melting aluminum is easy. This will look great and have a perfectly flat top (gravity if your friend).

SO, what do you guys think is the best approach? Any other great ideas that I missed (I can't be the first person crossing this bridge)?

 

[drunkenmeatfist]

I have read posts debating Hunsaker vs. Gateway and there are plenty of people out there that argue that having a hinged lid is completely unnecessary. I really like having that hinge and it was a big reason I chose Hunsaker. Actually it looks like the floating hinge that Hunsaker offers could work for the lid you have. $40, but it is stainless.

https://www.hunsakersmokers.com/collections/uds-parts/products/floating-hinge-for-drum-smoker

 

[Skidkid]

I looked at their floating hinge. I like the stainless part and seriously considered it. This hinge has a pin but it has a ball detent on the pin so you can pull the ring and the pin comes right out releasing the lid. It also has an automatic lock so even a wind won't cause the lid to fall if you put it up.

The problem I have is how the lid isn't flat but the hinge is flat. The Hunsanker hinge has the same issue.

 

[luv2smoke]

You could trace around the hinge on the lid and cut the metal out. Then weld a piece of flat stock larger than the cut out on the bottom of the lid and that would give you a flat surface on the top for the hinge?

 

[bwsawman]

I would probably cut the hinge so that it would fit in between the ridges and use the two holes closest to the edge. If you wanted the extra stability that you will be loosing, I would add a flat piece on the bottom side that extends past the ridge that is a problem and use short bolts coming up from the bottom and put cap nuts on them for a clean look.

 

[ModelMaker]

Mark the offending ,ridge with felt tip, back the underside with steel block and hammer till flat!
Ed

 

[bschoen]

Stack some appropriate size washers as shims.

 

[Skidkid]

I would probably cut the hinge so that it would fit in between the ridges and use the two holes closest to the edge. If you wanted the extra stability that you will be loosing, I would add a flat piece on the bottom side that extends past the ridge that is a problem and use short bolts coming up from the bottom and put cap nuts on them for a clean look.

Backing plate. A good idea and pretty easy to do.

You could trace around the hinge on the lid and cut the metal out. Then weld a piece of flat stock larger than the cut out on the bottom of the lid and that would give you a flat surface on the top for the hinge?

This would work well but I am not that experienced at welding so I need to think about this.

Mark the offending ,ridge with felt tip, back the underside with steel block and hammer till flat!
Ed

Wouldn't this cause the lid to deform? In effect, the ridge causes a shrink so hammering it flat will make that section longer and that would in theory cause the lid to bow.

EDIT: I did the math and if I flatten the ridge it is .040 longer. I guess I need to figure out how much that will warp the top. This may actually be the easiest way forward. Thanks

EDIT 2: OK, I did the math. 0.0403 across 22" causes a 1.33" vertical deflection. So that won't work.

 

[Skidkid]

You guys gave me another idea; combine a couple of your ideas Cut the inner ridge on 3 sides (around the bracket size) then hammer it flat and weld or braze in the gaps.

 

[Skidkid]

I made a little progress. I cut the ridge loose on 3 sides with my Dremel and a fiber wheel. Then I pounded it out flat; backed with a wooden block and used a ballpeen hammer. I didn't think about it but the rise is only about .040 so the wheel width turns out to be enough to make it flat and set up a but joint. I will braze this tomorrow and then drill to fit the hinge.

THEN, moving on to the next steps.

 

[Skidkid]

OK, you guys probably know most of this stuff but here it goes: First, don't think you are going to braze that drum. The heat causes so much warp that you can't make the joints hold. Maybe if you did it a tiny section at a time and clamped the heck out of it but in general, forget brazing.

SO, I bummed my neighbor's ancient arc welder. I have never welded before so why not start on 18 gauge steel with an ancient welder that has a big metal lever on the front to set the transformer inside? What could possibly go wrong? I avoided burn through for the most part. It took a while to learn to strike an arc and the breeze blew out my arc several times making it less than optimal. The results aren't pretty because it got a bunch of dots on it before I got the hang of things and that makes it hard to maintain an even arc. Fixing the tiny pin holes between the blobs is what took the time.

I finished it off with my angle grinder and a few more patched holes. Overall, it looks good on top and is flat enough on the bottom. I call it a win.

Now I am ready to drill holes for the hinge and move onto the grill hangers.

 

[Skidkid]

AND I have another pastrami going in the 22" weber. Can't wait. Maybe a pork butt tomorrow

 

[WilliamKY]

A flat drum lid would have made that hinge much easier to install. Build is looking good.

 

[Skidkid]

Some of the parts were delayed then I was super busy so it sat in the corner of the dining room for a while. No paint so didn't want to leave it out yet. As you can guess, my wife loved that part.

Today I got back to this project and got all of the parts fitted up. Haven't decided if I want/need handles to move it around so those are not fitted. I also haven't decided on legs or casters but I have 3 of the LavaLock UDS caster fittings so I will probably fit those.

I only put the one inlet. Most of the pics have several but a 3/4" ball valve has free flow area of 0.44 sq in. My inlet is 2" square and has a 2" round hole for a free flow area of 3.14 sq in. That is more than 2x the area of 3 ball valves so I don't think I will need more. Same on the exhaust.

The lid fits ok but it isn't perfectly flat so not a tight seal. I think I will weld a piece of box tubing under the lid to hold it flat. That should make the seal pretty good. Do you think I should use a gasket seal for the lid? I have held off drilling the hinge holes on the drum until I make that decision.

Next, I will file a few of the sharp edges on a couple of pieces to make it all pretty and smooth. In the morning I will clean/etch the parts, dry them in the sun, then prime everything that isn't stainless. I am using a high temp primer and paint.

 

[Big George's BBQ]

Looking good to me

 

[Skidkid]

The piece on front is to hold my thermometer. I will punch a couple more holes just below to put the temp probes through. I have a Thermoworks Smoke that I have had for years and it works great (2 channel). I am thinking about a Fireboard, a little geeky but tracking performance is interesting.

I ordered a bunch of stainless pan head screws and will use those to mount everything. They look great and it will be consistent across the whole thing.

I have the Hunsanker 5 level grate system (standard grates) that I will weld into the drum next. After that, I can paint the drum.

AND here is a butt I did yesterday to make pulled pork. 10 hours on my 22" Weber Kettle.

 

[Stingerhook]

Looks good, I love the intake.

 

[Skidkid]

And I have a fire basket and heat diffuser ready to go. Along with two brand new stainless grates. It is FINALLY starting to take shape.

 

[Skidkid]

Looks good, I love the intake.

Thanks. I have seen the round but I really liked the square. This is pretty fun for a first build. Maybe I should have gone stainless barrel but for now, this will work well. I live in a pretty mild climate anyway.

 

[Skidkid]

So, I got delayed for a while. Kind of surprising that the wife didn't kill me since the drum has been in the dining room for a month. I got a welder and welded in the adjustable grill supports and some 3/4" square stock to set a heat diffuser on. The inside has oil on it now and ready to cure once I get it fired up. The blue marks are tape while I paint, don't really want paint inside the drum.

I got the primer on and the parts are all primed, painted, and heat cured. Only have a pic of them in primer for now. You will have to wait to see the paint.

I welded a 1/4 square tube across the bottom of the lid to pull it flat. That worked out pretty well.

Welds aren't pretty but I am getting better at it. The definitely won't fail so they do their job.

Meanwhile, I cooked up some babyback ribs today. They should be done in another hour or so. Pics on that later.