THE BBQ BRETHREN FORUMS

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I emailed them this week to ask about the lead time on orders right now and Chris said it is model dependent. Im looking at a vertical offset and he said all the offsets are around 18 weeks right now. The cabinet smokers may be different.
 
I emailed them this week to ask about the lead time on orders right now and Chris said it is model dependent. Im looking at a vertical offset and he said all the offsets are around 18 weeks right now. The cabinet smokers may be different.

As of today the Insulated Smokers are estimated at 10 weeks give or take a little.

Chris
 
Finally got to cook again and post some pics of the guru holder in action. I really like the way it keeps it off the paint and off the side table. Got 2 16.5 lbs packers on now for my son's baseball team party
 

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The larger blower is called the Pit Bull and is 25 cfm. Do you find out have to adjust the sliding damper at all or what position do you operate it at ?
 
Ok, pit bull. I usually have to ball valve on the back intake and have it open around the width of a pencil and the damper on the guru 1/2 to all the way open depending on what temperature I want to cook at. I found if I close the ball valve all the way and just use the guru, the fan ran a lo . My smoker will cruise right along at 250 with the above setup and the fan barely runs. It pretty much only runs after I open the door.
 
Well, my wait is over! just went and picked up vertical insulated from the freight terminal and I hope I never have to uncrate another smoker. The job they do on that crate is top notch and not one scratch on the unit. If you don't have a trailer with a load gate, rent one! This thing weighs a lot so make sure you have friends with strong backs and weak minds. My hats off to Chris and Amber for such a great product and great customer support, wish there we more people like you two.
 
The larger blower is called the Pit Bull and is 25 cfm. Do you find out have to adjust the sliding damper at all or what position do you operate it at ?

I run my Pit Bull blower damper wide open until my cabinet gets 50 degrees from target temp. Then I close it to half. When the pit gets within 25 degrees I close it to 1/4. When it gets to target I close it to 1/8 open. This works well for my cooker and keeps it from over shooting the temp.
 
Guys I am really thinking about modifying my LSGIS to accept a Smoke Daddy pellet assembly. I will still be able to burn logs or wood chunks. This would truly be a set it and forget smoker for me especially on long cooks. What do you think about that?
http://www.smokedaddyinc.com/…/cabinet-refrigerator-past-bu…#
Once you click on the link, the first smoker which is blue will give you an idea of where I am going with this. With this mod, I will be able to use the fuel source I choose.
 
Guys I am really thinking about modifying my LSGIS to accept a Smoke Daddy pellet assembly. I will still be able to burn logs or wood chunks. This would truly be a set it and forget smoker for me especially on long cooks. What do you think about that?
http://www.smokedaddyinc.com/…/cabinet-refrigerator-past-bu…#
Once you click on the link, the first smoker which is blue will give you an idea of where I am going with this. With this mod, I will be able to use the fuel source I choose.
Since you asked I think it is a bad idea for many reasons not the least of which is the cost and efficiency of pellets. If you had to sell it you would be lucky to get twenty cents on the dollar for such an abomination.
 
Don't have anything against charcoal but when I use the the ball valves, water etc, sometime I get temps fluctuations. When I use the minion method with fire bricks, sometimes rows get ignited that cause my temp to rise and the dampers/ball valves don't have any effect.
 
Don't have anything against charcoal but when I use the the ball valves, water etc, sometime I get temps fluctuations. When I use the minion method with fire bricks, sometimes rows get ignited that cause my temp to rise and the dampers/ball valves don't have any effect.
I would like to see the firebrick setup in your firebox. Never had the fire jump over before in any cooker. My first guess is you might need a tighter maze to keep less charcoal lit vs a wider maze where more is lit. I do agree that once you overshoot it takes hours to get temps down. I would also like to know how much lit you start with and when you start closing intakes. How big are the fluctuations? I think figuring out your temp issue would be much easier and cheaper than cutting and adding a pellet pooper. Give us a chance...as a group we can almost figure out anything. :mrgreen:
 
I agree. Not really sure what your setup is doing that is giving you issues. The following is how I normally load my charcoal. I usually use chunks, but this image has some splits that I split to give it a try. Next time I will cut them in chunks.

That said, the set up works, burns stable, and has burned long enough to do 15 pound briskets.
 

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I also use the L and U shaped method and it works pretty well when I don't get over zealous with the charcoal and I don't use the water pan much any more . If anything, I will add a ss container and put water in it. With the pellet pooper, I am looking at extended long cooks and I can add wood splits if I choose to and not worry about temp flucs like my Stumps I use to have because it was gravity fed. Your U method is alot wider than mine. When I last did mine like the way you have yours, Eventually all of my charcoal was lit and water, closing the ball valves couldn't lower the temp unless I took some of the fuel out. Don't get me wrong, I love my LSG and I have had it for a while and I get better cooks out of it using less fuel. For Thanksgiving when I did my turkeys, it was spot on feeding it splits every hour using only a chimney of lit charcoal.
 

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One thing to add. In the picture I cut those chunks down before they became lit. I now light away from the bv on the right side of the fb.
 
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