The bottom shelf, and box bottom and end are 1X4. The 4 legs are treated 2X4s. The rest is untreated, Douglas Fir 2X4s. The table top is all 2X4s, with a 1/4" ripped off both sides to get the smooth, 'butcher block' effect. Table top was glued, clamped, and screwed (4", countersunk).
The 'kettle cradle' is a 2X4 frame with short, angled 2X4s screwed in to create the octagon. Take measurements of your kettle and handles and size the cradle accordingly.
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Front and back supports for the kettle are made from 1" aluminum square tubing. The cart handle is 1 1/4" pine dowel (both HDepot).
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Wheels are HFreight, cover cradle is Weber add-on.
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Square tubing is cut (mitre saw) short and angled to catch under the lip of the kettle. I measured width of octagon a little too short, and chiseled out a notch for each support for a good fit.
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Two holes are drilled in each piece of tube, one small hole for the screw (short side of angled tube), and one large access hole to sink the screw (long side of angled tube).
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The left & right supports are steel brackets (HDepot) with notches cut out (mitre saw, CLAMPED) for the grill handles to set in (for Weber grill, remove plastic handles). I made the cutouts in the table with a plunge router. I used longer wood screws than what came with the brackets. The brass finishing screws are to keep the kettle from moving side to side.
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Stainless towel holder (WMart) is mounted on two stacked 2X4s, as far from the kettle as possible. This holder is perfect as it is cheap, stainless, and it is bendable to a perfect tension--good dispensing of the towels without allowing the towels to blow away in the wind.
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Whole unit is stained and polyurethaned. All but table top will get Thompson's after 1 season. Glad everyone likes the opener. Will probably get more use than the grill. For those who are wondering about flammability, I used my "
kettle pizza" on this grill table, with the grill reaching about 700F (YES, 700F!) The table took the heat with no signs of trouble.
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