Help me deconstruct these Chinese cumin-lamb skewers!

hominamad

Knows what a fatty is.
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I live in NYC area and have a Taiwanese buddy who is a BBQ guy and also an all around foodie. For months now he was telling me about a food cart in Flushing, Queens that sells the most unbelievable lamb skewers. There is an enormous Chinatown in Flushing - with some amazing foods to be found, but I was always a bit skeptical of this. I didn't think the Chinese were really known for this type of thing, but I figured I'd give it a shot.

So two weeks ago we drive down there, and I get to sample this. I was absolutely blown away. These were one of the best grilled meats I'd ever tasted, and definitely the best grilled lamb I'd had. Plus, an extra bonus is that the skewers are only $1.25 each! (although we did each eat 10 of them).

So now I'm on a mission to reproduce this delicacy at home. I tried it once already, and while good, was nowhere as good as what they made. So I went back a second time to do some research and try to figure out the secrets (and of course sample some more). They wouldn't really give a straight answer about all the methods, but I did pick up some more tidbits.

I was hoping some people here could maybe give me some ideas.

Here's what I know so far:

- The meat is very heavily spiced. The main flavor component is cumin, followed by hot pepper and salt. In fact, I confirmed on my last trip there that those 3 things are all they use. They are extremely spicy. I think that they fresh-grind the cumin because I noticed that

- The meat is not marinated or seasoned at all before they cook them. I saw them taking skewers out of the cooler and there were no spices (that I could see) on them. All the spicing is done while the meat cooks. So basically, while one side is cooking, the guy loads on a ton of hot pepper, cumin and salt, and then turns the meat and repeats on the other side. They do this at least 2 times per side I noticed.

- They cut the meat into very small pieces on the skewers, but also cook very close to the fire (they use royal oak lump). Each set of skewers cooks for about 5 min. but the meet is not dried out or tough

- The meat is extremely fatty - the good kind of fat. In fact, some parts of the skewer seemed to be only fat - but extremely delicious!


So I'm pretty sure that I know the spices at this point - but now I need to figure out what part of the lamb to use. The last 2 times I tried it at home, I used leg chunks and cut them up very small. While good, they just weren't fatty enough. I'm thinking maybe I should try using the shoulder next time.

I'm also playing around with my set up. I'm using a Weber kettle (See below) and improvised a kebab setup with fire bricks. It worked but was so hot that they meat started burning quickly, and the skewers caught on fire and broke - even though I soaked them. Next time I will try the same setup, but choke down the air from the bottom to hopefully cool it down and allow them to cook a bit longer.

If anyone has any other suggestions - let me know!

Now some pics:

Their cart:

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My first attempt (meat too big, wrong skewers)

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My second attempt (too hot, not enough spice, not fatty enough meat)

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Yes. it is very popular in China
I have various smokers which are designed to do low and slow.
But indeed I do more this skewer mutton in my reverse UDS.
200C for 5 minutes and then 160C for 10 minutes
 
Wow, thanks for posting this and what a great narrative! I hope you will keep working on this, you may be surprised to find you may exceed the original with enough work.

The one thing I would add is that marinating the meat in the spice mixture could only improve the result.

Keep us posted!
 
I was going to guess lamb belly, but, looking at that meat, it isn't belly. I am leaning towards upper shoulder or even back. The top side meat can be meaty like that in a very young lamb.

Islamic Chinese food is quite common, and traces back it's heritage to a period of time when Turkish traders worked in Western China. Naturally, they did not eat pig, so lamb became the meat of choice (or goat). Chinese cumin will be very fresh, it is quite pungent and it is important that you get fresh cumin and roast it just before grinding. I would also suggest considering some Sichuan peppers added to your chile pepper mix. It creates a flavor profile called Ma-La, and is essential to the cuisine. A hot then numbing sensation, very common in Chinese lamb dishes, Numbing Lamb being the famous one.
 
I was going to guess lamb belly, but, looking at that meat, it isn't belly. I am leaning towards upper shoulder or even back. The top side meat can be meaty like that in a very young lamb.

Islamic Chinese food is quite common, and traces back it's heritage to a period of time when Turkish traders worked in Western China. Naturally, they did not eat pig, so lamb became the meat of choice (or goat). Chinese cumin will be very fresh, it is quite pungent and it is important that you get fresh cumin and roast it just before grinding. I would also suggest considering some Sichuan peppers added to your chile pepper mix. It creates a flavor profile called Ma-La, and is essential to the cuisine. A hot then numbing sensation, very common in Chinese lamb dishes, Numbing Lamb being the famous one.

Thanks! That is some great information. Definitely going to try it. My next attempt is going to be with the shoulder. We tried to get them to tell us what part they use - but they just said they use all of it. I suppose this is possible. They may mix it up. Another thing to keep in mind is that since they sell these for $1.25 each, I imagine they are using a cheaper cut?
 
I am going to guess, that the cheapest cut is shoulder and belly. I will note, that lamb ribs, which are not cheap, are terrific with these spices as well
 
I was going to guess lamb belly, but, looking at that meat, it isn't belly. I am leaning towards upper shoulder or even back. The top side meat can be meaty like that in a very young lamb.

Islamic Chinese food is quite common, and traces back it's heritage to a period of time when Turkish traders worked in Western China. Naturally, they did not eat pig, so lamb became the meat of choice (or goat). Chinese cumin will be very fresh, it is quite pungent and it is important that you get fresh cumin and roast it just before grinding. I would also suggest considering some Sichuan peppers added to your chile pepper mix. It creates a flavor profile called Ma-La, and is essential to the cuisine. A hot then numbing sensation, very common in Chinese lamb dishes, Numbing Lamb being the famous one.
Absolutely right. sounds you are a chinese.
 
I grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area, and have been going to Chinatown, both San Francisco and Oakland for a long time. Gotten to know a few cooks along the way. Islamic Chinese is one of the many interesting cuisines of China, as you well know, there are many.
 
It is very common along street in summer evening, especially weekend.
Friends sit together to eat and drink and chat loudly.
But the smoke is really a big pollution.
China government say NO to it.
But in China law is law and practice is practice.
Bad vendors use pork or duck meat soaked in lamb oil, and then mix with real mutton.
It is true you can use any part of lamb.
By the way usually it is lamb instead of goat.
 
There is a place out here that makes a Claypot lamb rib dish, and it is one of the most amazing meat dishes I have ever had. A large bowl of rice and just pouring the rib meat and sauce over the rice, soooo good. I am pretty sure is it mostly seasoned with cumin and a few Sichuan spices.
 
Usually, these foods have very simple recipes and the ingredients often are the cheapest cuts. Often there is something simple that you just can't put your finger on. I might also add that a missing ingredient might be MSG. When I am curious about the recipes of such food, I often just ask the vendor. More often than not, they are more than happy to tell you exactly how they make it. It also gives you an excuse to go back and get more. :thumb:
 
You may be missing some sesame oil, the Chinese street shops here use it a lot
 
You may be missing some sesame oil, the Chinese street shops here use it a lot

no, there shall not be any oil on this kind of skewer mutton.
Most genuine is grilling FRESH mutton on skewer.
After well done, apply powder of salt, cumin and red pepper on mutton
Then grilling another 1 or 2 minutes
not any other seasoning
 
no, there shall not be any oil on this kind of skewer mutton.
Most genuine is grilling FRESH mutton on skewer.
After well done, apply powder of salt, cumin and red pepper on mutton
Then grilling another 1 or 2 minutes
not any other seasoning

Thank you Wang.
You are helpful
Can you give us a Recipe for Your preferred skewers?
 
This kind of skewer mutton originates from The Xinjiang(Sinkiang) Uygur Autonomous Region by Uygurs. Uygurs is one of total 56 nationality ethnic groups in China. Uygurs are Muslims.
In any city the best skewer mutton is done by Uygurs.
This skewer mutton uses chile pepper, but not Sichuan pepper.
XinJiang is in the north west of China.
SiChuan province is in south west of China.
SiChuan dish is famous for "ma la", or SiChuan pepper is "ma", Chile pepper is "la"
Attached picture is Sichuan pepper
bk_1d5864dc1766f61ff9e06ff3bef03443_TgYca0.jpg
 
Thank you Wang.
You are helpful
Can you give us a Recipe for Your preferred skewers?

As I said fresh mutton, salt, cumin and Chile Pepper.
I thought red pepper refers to Chile pepper.
If Red Pepper is indeed Sichuan pepper.
No, it does not use Sichuan pepper
 
I did skewer mutton by UDS
mutton2.jpg

set the controller at 200C for 5 minutes and then drop to 160C for 10 minutes.
I just sit inside the house with air conditioning on.
I do not need to stand beside the grill to sweat.
I add lining by mud inside my UDS.
It gives same result/taste as genuine Uygurs grill does
 
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