Seasoning and Linseed Oil - new offset

[gtsum]

After a few applications it will look like penny. Love my linseed oil finish


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[robertm]

Dayum that's a purdy girl!

More importantly how do you like cooking on it?

 

[TheHojo]

Dayum that's a purdy girl!

More importantly how do you like cooking on it?

Have only had a chance to cook once - pork shoulder - but very easy to keep temps with the coal bed it keeps

Hope to get a few cooks in this weekend

 

[charcoalwilly]

It was boiled - everything I read or had been told was to use boiled - hopefully that was correct

There is a long thread on the different types of linseed oil in thread below.
https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292175

Here is nugget from a company who makes polymerized linseed oil that doesn't have many of chemicals from boiled linseed oil:

"Our Danish Oil is 100% pure polymerized linseed oil with none of the toxic drying aids found in the raw (despite the name) boiled linseed oil typically found on hardware store shelves and is already halfway “cooked” so it cures faster and with less smoking than raw flaxoil that many people use.[...]

The “halfway cooked” term means that our oil is polymerized (heat treated under vacuum to above its flashpoint), it cures via an oxidation reaction which can be very slow when working with raw flax oil but since we have partially oxidized it, half of the work is already done. It is faster curing on wood than raw or “boiled” linseed oils and, in this case, on hot metal. With much less oxidation required for it to cure then there is much less smoke and time required for it to complete.

All oxidation reactions generate heat and are sped up by heat, that’s why linseed oil-soaked rags can auto-ignite in the correct conditions – that much surface area of oil on the cloth’s fiber exposed to air can cause a chain reaction leading to a rapid oxidation aka open flames."

Here is the link for their product (there might be other brands out there, but I couldn't find them in quick search).
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.c...ts/danish-oil/

They said that they mostly sell to woodworkers, but some customers have used to season cast iron pans as well as outdoor steel fire features and bbqs.
==
Another nugget here:
"Boiled linseed oil, often written as BLO, is not as it sounds– there’s no heating or boiling involved (unlike polymerized linseed oil). The difference between raw linseed oil and boiled linseed oil is that there are drying agents (either petroleum-based or heavy metals) added in order to make it a more feasible option for finishing wood furniture.

Some of the petroleum-based siccative compounds that are added to linseed oil to decrease the drying time are naptha, mineral spirits, and dipropylene glycol monomethyl. Cobalt and manganese are the most common metal siccatives found in boiled linseed oil."

==
"Boiled linseed oil” refers to a combination of:

Raw linseed oil
Polymerized oil
Metallic dryers
Industrial solvents"

Why the need of dryers?
Linseed oil is a drying oil so it will naturally harden over time. Most other natural oils are non-drying oils so they will not harden and will continue to be “oily” and are likely to become rancid. The amount of time required for raw linseed oil to cure depends on temperature, humidity, etc but is in the weeks, if not months, time frame. To be a viable finish for furniture, the cure time must be lowered.

There are two ways to speed up the drying time of linseed oil-
Apply heat to linseed oil so it polymerizes [or]
Introduce metallic dryers

The faster, cheaper and easier way for industrial coatings manufacturers is to add metallic dryers. Most often cobalt and manganese salts are the catalysts of choice."

 

[Nash]

I use the polymerized linseed only, it has a higher viscosity = thicker coats, dries quite a lot faster, and even better it's 100% foodgrade (isn't death poison) so it's great even inside pits, on food-grates, or wooden cutting boards, pretty much anything really. Great stuff!

 

[charcoalwilly]

I use the polymerized linseed only, it has a higher viscosity = thicker coats, dries quite a lot faster, and even better it's 100% foodgrade (isn't death poison) so it's great even inside pits, on food-grates, or wooden cutting boards, pretty much anything really. Great stuff!

Do you have a link to the brand that you use?
I have tried the one mentioned above and liked the fact that it did not have the drying agents but hardened up a lot faster than raw flax oil.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/danish-oil/

 

[ehk49]

Beautiful pit there and the raw/linseed oil finish looks great. Good luck with it.

 

[Nash]

Do you have a link to the brand that you use?
I have tried the one mentioned above and liked the fact that it did not have the drying agents but hardened up a lot faster than raw flax oil.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/danish-oil/

That's the brand I use, it's great. If it's "polymerized" it's the good stuff. I always refer to this link for a quick read on linseed-schooling! https://vermontwoodsstudios.com/blog/raw-vs-boiled-vs-polymerized-linseed-oil/


Another one of the better points about the polymerized is that it does NOT self-combust, this is a huge bonus in my eyes because it's just way to easy to absentmindedly throw a rag or otherwise in the trash.

:thumb:


OP - that's a killer pit that looks fantastic btw, BLO and all!

 

[charcoalwilly]

Another one of the better points about the polymerized is that it does NOT self-combust, this is a huge bonus in my eyes because it's just way to easy to absentmindedly throw a rag or otherwise in the trash.

Are you sure about this?

 

[Nash]

Are you sure about this?

Yes.

 

[charcoalwilly]

There is a long thread below in a woodworking forum that contends that even polymerized linseed oil can auto-ignite rags. I will contact Tried and True again to see if they can clarify.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/spontaneous-combustion-why-whats-the-reaction-that-starts-it

"Tried and True may have no drying agents (in the form of metallic driers), but these are still drying oils and can still potentially create spontaneous combustion. They, like raw linseed oil, dry slowly, and run less risk than some other drying oils and varnishes, but that's just an artifact of being really slow curing--mostly a negative thing in my point of view. The point is that it is the basic curing process of the oils or varnishes that create the problem--"drying agents" only speed the process."
==
"Polymerized means that the linseed oil is heated to a particular temperature and then cooled. The heating causes partial polymerization (curing) allowing the oil to further polymerize more rapidly when applied to the wood. Heating linseed oil is the old and very unsafe process used to cause linseed oil to cure much faster. It's the basis for the word "boiled" in relation to faster drying linseed oil.

The point is that anything--whether polymerization or adding chemical metallic compounds--added will cause the the more rapid build up of heat as the oil further polymerizes to the point of becoming a solid. Tried & True is just as dangerous boiled linseed oil made by the addition of metal driers."

 

[gtsum]

I use the same thing that workhorse uses when they build a pit. If good enough for them and the smoker they built for me, it’s good enough for me (although U do have to be careful about discarding the oil filled sponge as already noted ). Every 15-20 cooks or so I just wipe it down with a sponge while I’m cooking something.

Klean-Strip Green GLO45 Boiled Linseed Oil, 1-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUEOXFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4YVJJXA882K0R2T9GCSV


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[TheHojo]

Dayum that's a purdy girl!

More importantly how do you like cooking on it?

Got another cook on it yesterday - runs great

Just did some smoked burgers - smoked for about an hour and then did a reverse seal on the baffle/griddle l made for the cook chamber

Today going to fire it up and do a bone in pork loin

 

[cayenne]

How best to dispose of them?

There is a long thread below in a woodworking forum that contends that even polymerized linseed oil can auto-ignite rags. I will contact Tried and True again to see if they can clarify.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/spontaneous-combustion-why-whats-the-reaction-that-starts-it

"Tried and True may have no drying agents (in the form of metallic driers), but these are still drying oils and can still potentially create spontaneous combustion. They, like raw linseed oil, dry slowly, and run less risk than some other drying oils and varnishes, but that's just an artifact of being really slow curing--mostly a negative thing in my point of view. The point is that it is the basic curing process of the oils or varnishes that create the problem--"drying agents" only speed the process."
==
"Polymerized means that the linseed oil is heated to a particular temperature and then cooled. The heating causes partial polymerization (curing) allowing the oil to further polymerize more rapidly when applied to the wood. Heating linseed oil is the old and very unsafe process used to cause linseed oil to cure much faster. It's the basis for the word "boiled" in relation to faster drying linseed oil.

The point is that anything--whether polymerization or adding chemical metallic compounds--added will cause the the more rapid build up of heat as the oil further polymerizes to the point of becoming a solid. Tried & True is just as dangerous boiled linseed oil made by the addition of metal driers."

So...what is the best way to dispose of your used linseed oil rags/sponges?
Seems a bad idea to throw in the trashcan for regular trash pickup, since it can spontaneously ignite....so, where/how do you throw it away?

Thanks in advance,
cayenne

 

[txsmkmstr]

I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong but here are my thoughts on disposal. There are two methods I deem acceptable. One involves letting things "dry" or cure in a single layer - NOT in a bunched up pile. Picture a clothes line approach until the rags are dry. Slow and stinky for sure but safe once dry.

The other is to put the rags into a sealed container with the objective being the elimination of oxygen which is required for ignition. The type and style of container is debatable but as long as no additional oxygen can reach the rags you should be safe.

Just my 1/50th of buck..............

 

[Maylar]

I do as above, lay them flat to dry. If you wanted to dispose, I think soaking them in water first would render them safe for a while.

 

[Juggy D Beerman]

txsmkstr, I don't see anything wrong with your disposal methods. I use linseed oil as a wood preservative and when I am done with the rags, I just put them in a pile and burn them. Sometimes if I am bored, I will place them in a pile in the sunlight and see how long it takes them to self-ignite.

 

[SmokinAussie]

So...what is the best way to dispose of your used linseed oil rags/sponges?
Seems a bad idea to throw in the trashcan for regular trash pickup, since it can spontaneously ignite....so, where/how do you throw it away?

Thanks in advance,
cayenne

Probs the last ever thing you need to worry about. This ignition idea? Probs bullsh!t. These are organic. It's all the other stuff. Plastics etc. You toss those in the trash and expect they get disposed of properly. Is there even a proper way?

Cuppla dirty rags and linseed oil? Sent it to me and I'll rub it on my Cricket Bat.

Cheers!

 

[1MoreFord]

.........................

The other is to put the rags into a sealed container with the objective being the elimination of oxygen which is required for ignition. The type and style of container is debatable but as long as no additional oxygen can reach the rags you should be safe.

Just my 1/50th of buck..............

The ole time method was to put them in a metal coffee can with a metal lid.(Remember them?).

These days I'd say an empty paint can.

 

[TheHojo]

They will catch fire - see page one of this thread - sponge caught on fire after sittin outside on our table for a few minutes after applying the linseed oil

I generally just wash out the towel or sponge with water - then let dry on the driveway away from everything - before I throw away