Jmgunn
Knows what a fatty is.
Wow good on you. I bet that’s awesome. Sure looks good!
Wow good on you. I bet that’s awesome. Sure looks good!
BackDoorBBQ
Wandering around with a bag of matchlight, looking for a match.
I just got my Pecos this weekend. I tried to burn everything out from the manufacturing process and I had a hard time getting the cooking chamber hot. I was using an old country bbq pits gauge a few inches above grate level and center of chamber and I don’t think I got it above 350*. It was cold and windy out and I need to double check the temps with some probes but I still think there is an airflow problem. I am going to put gaskets on the doors first and see if that helps at all.
Based on this thread and conversations with the original poster, I had a baffle/griddle built for my new smoker.
It sits on the grates and goes against the cook chamber/firebox - as such it can easily be taken in and out of the smoker
Used for first time yesterday - seemed to concentrate the hotspot closer to the firebox - thus giving me more useable grill space.
just used a 1/4 inch piece of plate - was bent on each end for 2 inch legs - OD of the plate is 21 x 6
sandro
Full Fledged Farker
Glad it's working out for ya, the Johnson brothers really were onto something. Bet you that deflector is gonna end on many more backyard offsets soon
Based on this thread and conversations with the original poster, I had a baffle/griddle built for my new smoker.
It sits on the grates and goes against the cook chamber/firebox - as such it can easily be taken in and out of the smoker
Used for first time yesterday - seemed to concentrate the hotspot closer to the firebox - thus giving me more useable grill space.
just used a 1/4 inch piece of plate - was bent on each end for 2 inch legs - OD of the plate is 21 x 6
I wouldnt waste my time with gaskets... I found long ago that every smoker leaks... it takes several cooks to get everything to eventually seal up... When i first got my Pecos, I hand-picked it. Everything was ok, minus a few bits of slag from.welding i had to grind off. Unfortunately I had issues with the factory baffle, requiring me to run a way-too-hot fire to keep it from snuffing... but when the fire got to a certain intensity, the firebox door would "ping" and warp open slightly, causing an air leak and making the fire ramp higher.
Since removing the baffle, I have absolutely no issues with fire maintenance or running too hot... and adding the collector has actually helped even more (though ive only done one brisket cook on it). Now I can run decent sized splits and have them catch quickly and not snuff out... I can run all day without dancing back and forth with damper adjustments and Rollercoaster temps that i had stock... plus the baffle removal took the hot spot to far right (where its supposed to be) and left me 3/4 of the cook chamber with good, even heat... before I could only cook in the left 1/2 of the cook chamber
I can send you some dimensions if interested... as I said before, just cutting out the factory baffle is a night and day difference. Feel free to message me on Instagram @chrsguit if you would like 1on1 with more detailed photos and videos of what all I did to mine
sandro
Full Fledged Farker
That is very kind of you, and I would take you on your offer however I fabricated mine a long time ago for my tiny 16x36. Measured things by eye and scaled them down, worked out really good; you can see it in action on one of the links in my signature
Lynn Dollar
is Blowin Smoke!
The cook chamber door on my Brazos was sprung.
Lower left corner of my Brazos leaked badly, had maybe a 3/8" or more sized gap. Sealing up the cook chamber door helped even out temps from door to back side of the grate. Also, when I put a digital probe in that corner of the grate, I would get crazy temp variations. Biscuit tests looked much better after sealing the cook chamber.
I first tried gaskets but the gap was too large. I then went to RTV sealant, but that alone would not seal it up without using clamps.
Can see how much smoke escaping here , and this was after using the RTV sealant.
I agree that mostly gaskets aren't necessary, but it depends upon how big the gap is created by a sprung door.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbSW9gagzee/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Oh certainly... in that situation. I've seen some correct a sprung door by wedging a thin piece of metal (like an old file or small drill bit) under the sprung hinge, heating the hinge with a torch, and giving it a good but of pressure (or wack with a deadblow hammer) to true it up.
Another way is the "car hood" method... Open the door, hold with one hand on each side and push one side up and pull the other down in a twisting motion...
This is the one downside to a thinner all-welded pit
Having EVERYTHING welded isnt always a good thing. I'd rather have my doors and dampers on adjustable hinges or regular bolt instead of a welded bolt with ZERO adjustment. Granted, the QC should have noticed any major imperfections. You can get so far hand-picking in store... but until a pit sees a fire, how will you know?
