Cast iron semi restoration help
- Thread starter jsmorrow2s
- Start date
ElectronFlux
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
The easy-off method is good if you only have one or two to treat every once in a while.
The electrolysis method is best, but a lot of work for only one piece.
Yes, you can put it on the kettle, just make sure you wipe it down really well, or you’ll get drip lines. Also, do it multiple times.
For the oil to properly “polymerize” the heat has to be 500° or more. I’ve had the best luck with flaxseed oil.
This method is really very easy. The ones on WAGS can seem a little over the top.
What I did was use an 18gal Rubbermaid roughneck tub, bolt some uni-strut together that I cut to fit in the tub. Then attached a piece of all-thread long enough that it’s 6” taller than the tub. Place a rubber mat over the uni-strut, so the CI is not touching it.
For the electrolyte solution, use Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Detergent. I used 1/2 cup per gallon of hot water and mixed it up right in the tub. The water only needs to be hot initially to dissolve the detergent.
Connect the red lead of the battery charger to the CI and the black lead to the piece of all-thread. Completely submerge the CI, but not the whole battery clamp. Turn on the charger and treat for 6 hours or so. Repeat until the iron is bare. There may be some elbow grease needed, I’ve had the best results with Barkeeper’s Friend cleanser.
Don’t use this method in the house, the place needs to be well ventilated,the garage or outside is best. The gas produced is dangerous in non vented places.
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The electrolysis method is best, but a lot of work for only one piece.
Yes, you can put it on the kettle, just make sure you wipe it down really well, or you’ll get drip lines. Also, do it multiple times.
For the oil to properly “polymerize” the heat has to be 500° or more. I’ve had the best luck with flaxseed oil.
This method is really very easy. The ones on WAGS can seem a little over the top.
What I did was use an 18gal Rubbermaid roughneck tub, bolt some uni-strut together that I cut to fit in the tub. Then attached a piece of all-thread long enough that it’s 6” taller than the tub. Place a rubber mat over the uni-strut, so the CI is not touching it.
For the electrolyte solution, use Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Detergent. I used 1/2 cup per gallon of hot water and mixed it up right in the tub. The water only needs to be hot initially to dissolve the detergent.
Connect the red lead of the battery charger to the CI and the black lead to the piece of all-thread. Completely submerge the CI, but not the whole battery clamp. Turn on the charger and treat for 6 hours or so. Repeat until the iron is bare. There may be some elbow grease needed, I’ve had the best results with Barkeeper’s Friend cleanser.
Don’t use this method in the house, the place needs to be well ventilated,the garage or outside is best. The gas produced is dangerous in non vented places.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello, my name is Greg and I have a heavy metal problem. :becky:
I agree with those above that the “seasoning” on your pan is flaking.
Lye, sodium hydroxide, is the easiest and most effective way of removing carbon based material from your pan. Until about 2015 when the price of vintage pieces went berserk, I sought out old carbon encrusted pans for cheap. Many of these casting marks and brand labels are so obscured by carbon build up it is often impossible to identify the pan until it is cleaned.
I have scored several “ERIE” pans without knowing for sure until it came out of the lye tank!
Yes, the oven or easy off cleaner in a trash bag will work but I use a 30 gallon plastic garbage can half full with water and the appropriate amount of lye (follow instructions on label, can be found in hardware store and often in plumbing). Always add lye to the water, NOT water to the lye. This prevents splashback onto you.
I use an old metal coat hanger and pass it through the eye hole on handle of pan then gently lower pan into the lye solution. Let it sit for a couple of days in the lye (in warm weather, cold climate may require additional time in the lye).
Wearing gloves and glasses remove pan from lye by lifting the coat hanger, connected to pan, and rinse with garden hose. ALL carbon based material will be entirely removed exposing the bare metal. Quickly dry it and it helps to work in the shade because bare metal will flash rust almost immediately. No worries just dry it and stay out of direct sun if possible. An immediate light coat of oil will also prevent flash rusting. Now you are ready to re-season.
Be careful when using lye, it is caustic and it can cause your skin to burn if not washed off. Wear long kitchen cleaning gloves and glasses/goggles for protection.
I miss the hunt!
Good luck.
I agree with those above that the “seasoning” on your pan is flaking.
Lye, sodium hydroxide, is the easiest and most effective way of removing carbon based material from your pan. Until about 2015 when the price of vintage pieces went berserk, I sought out old carbon encrusted pans for cheap. Many of these casting marks and brand labels are so obscured by carbon build up it is often impossible to identify the pan until it is cleaned.
I have scored several “ERIE” pans without knowing for sure until it came out of the lye tank!
Yes, the oven or easy off cleaner in a trash bag will work but I use a 30 gallon plastic garbage can half full with water and the appropriate amount of lye (follow instructions on label, can be found in hardware store and often in plumbing). Always add lye to the water, NOT water to the lye. This prevents splashback onto you.
I use an old metal coat hanger and pass it through the eye hole on handle of pan then gently lower pan into the lye solution. Let it sit for a couple of days in the lye (in warm weather, cold climate may require additional time in the lye).
Wearing gloves and glasses remove pan from lye by lifting the coat hanger, connected to pan, and rinse with garden hose. ALL carbon based material will be entirely removed exposing the bare metal. Quickly dry it and it helps to work in the shade because bare metal will flash rust almost immediately. No worries just dry it and stay out of direct sun if possible. An immediate light coat of oil will also prevent flash rusting. Now you are ready to re-season.
Be careful when using lye, it is caustic and it can cause your skin to burn if not washed off. Wear long kitchen cleaning gloves and glasses/goggles for protection.
I miss the hunt!
Good luck.
ElectronFlux
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
I forgot about using lye. This method is how I started stripping CI, but then there was none to be had, because of the meth heads, and I went with the electrolysis method. I checked Ace Hardware’s site, and they’re carrying it again.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/drain-openers/drain-cleaners/4239216
My 2¢ to add to this is to rinse the lye treated CI with vinegar, not water. The vinegar will neutralize the lye.
x2 on wearing chemical handling gloves and eye pro.
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Thanks, using vinegar to rinse lye-treated CI is a great recommendation!
On second thought, I was taught a vinegar rinse or soaking (to remove rust) should be followed by fresh water rinse to prevent mild corrosion and/or pitting that an be caused by using vinegar. Perhaps a diluted vinegar-water solution followed quickly by a thorough wiping and drying would help reduce flash rust. I consider flash rust to be an inconvenience more then a problem, just wipe it off and season.
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I mitigate the issue by cracking windows around the house & by turning on every exhaust fan available (range hood is real & vents outside the house, and four bathroom fans). If I do this, it doesn't set off any smoke alarms.
An oven cleaning cycle typically gets north of 1,000 degrees...and so an a charcoal fire, but that's alot of tending to keep the temp that high for hours.
My "new" house doesn't have an oven with a self-cleaning oven...ugh. I have no intentions of acquiring any more cast iron...but then I never had intentions to get most of what I have either...
The oven cleaning option is just so dang easy. I would catch the wife going to work one day & do it early...giving the house a chance to air out before she gets home.
DavidWebb
MemberGot rid of the matchlight.
I am new to the forum and I do have my share of cast iron pots/pans. I read somewhere that the clean oven cycle works great but because of the high heat, it may damage some components in the oven (hence, a future repair). I ended up just cranking my gas grill to high for an hour and let it sit over night. The pan returns to bare metal... Then it is a matter of applying coats of oil (flaxseed oil) coating 4x at 300 degrees....
