Basic trailer electricity question

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Babbling Farker
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May 19, 2011
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Any cost advantage other than an adapter plug on an extension cord to run 30amp into a trailer instead of 15amp? Dont forsee running anything more than a coffee maker/blender/lights/stereo/fans currently.

Found some good power inlets for rubes doing the same type of thing this spring

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QALLOQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER"]Amazon.com: ParkPower 150BBIW.RV 15 Amp Power Inlet, White: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31hbEdxP-8L.@@AMEPARAM@@31hbEdxP-8L[/ame]

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-Black-125V/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=05BA8JJFCYGY0CBP9135"]Amazon.com: NOCO Genius GCP1 Black 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51gMZpJNDZL.@@AMEPARAM@@51gMZpJNDZL[/ame]

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-301ELRV-Power-Inlet-Stainless/dp/B000E3V9R6/ref=pd_sim_auto_13?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Z6166D4DSAQD5JVYC3Z"]Amazon.com: ParkPower 301ELRV 30A Power Inlet, White with Stainless Steel Trim: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31KXWtWbwnL.@@AMEPARAM@@31KXWtWbwnL[/ame]


Thanks

Im assuming the BBQ answer is to run 30 to the box.
 
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We have a 30 amp inlet in our trailer, but I'd say 90% of the time we're using an adapter going to a 15 or 20 amp outlet. When we get to use the 30 amp plug, it just means no tripping a breaker.
 
Our trailer is wired for 15A and I've never needed more than that as its just a trailer. Think ahead though, what if you add A/C or run a heater. You'll use up that 15 or 20 amps pretty fast. Also, our local contest has 30 and 50 amp outlets which keeps you off the GFCI which is cool but you can still use a 30 to 15 adaptor for that.
 
Better to have it and not need it. You can always adapt down to 20/15a. When you get that 30a service it is nice.

Ive found your build thread in my searches. It has helped with ideas. Thanks. Many times a picture says a thousand words.
 
Our trailer is wired for 15A and I've never needed more than that as its just a trailer. Think ahead though, what if you add A/C or run a heater. You'll use up that 15 or 20 amps pretty fast. Also, our local contest has 30 and 50 amp outlets which keeps you off the GFCI which is cool but you can still use a 30 to 15 adaptor for that.

Yeah, just thinking out ahead, Ive got a little space heater that eats 13amps, a Mr. Coffee takes 13 amp. Ive even seen guys with old microwaves.

Ill post pics once I get up and running. Been incredibly helpful checking out other peoples builds no matter how intricate.
 
I am about to do some wiring myself. I was just going to use the 15A. Just want to run a few outlets and some lights.

Here is a question....Has anyone seen something similar to these but, with the female plug? I am thinking these would an easy/clean solution for a plug-in on the exterior of the trailer.
 
Here is a question....Has anyone seen something similar to these but, with the female plug? I am thinking these would an easy/clean solution for a plug-in on the exterior of the trailer.

Ive been looking myself, Ill let you know if I find something but it hasnt looked promising so far
 
You need more than just the plug. You need a distribution panel. The wiring to your outlets is 15 or 20 amp. You can't put 30 amps into it. You wire the plug to a distribution panel with a 30 amp main breaker, and then 2 15 amp breakers...each one feeding half the outlets in your trailer.

My trailer is set up exactly like this. At a contest when I have only 15 amp power available, I use an external adapter to hook a 15 amp cord to the 30 amp external connector on the trailer.

Your coffee maker will use about 800 watts, which is almost half the capacity of a 15 amp circuit. If you are using a coffee maker, blender, and lights you are probably fine with 15 amps. If you want to use a space heater or a fridge along with those, you need 30.

People that have seen my setup know I'm a "prefer to have it in case I ever need it" kind of guy, but since 30 amps means a distribution panel and wiring change to your trailer, if you are quite certain there is no space heater in your future, the 15 amp setup will be less expensive to install.
 
I am about to do some wiring myself. I was just going to use the 15A. Just want to run a few outlets and some lights.

Here is a question....Has anyone seen something similar to these but, with the female plug? I am thinking these would an easy/clean solution for a plug-in on the exterior of the trailer.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-90W04-S-Industrial-Non-Grounding-Wetguard/dp/B005Y8LB38"]Leviton 90W04-S 15 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA 1-15, 2P, 2W, Industrial Grade, Non-Grounding, Wetguard, Straight Blade Single Outlet, Yellow - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41JWxnmG2tL.@@AMEPARAM@@41JWxnmG2tL[/ame]
 
Here is a question....Has anyone seen something similar to these but, with the female plug? I am thinking these would an easy/clean solution for a plug-in on the exterior of the trailer.

If I understand your question correctly, you're looking to have a cord with a male plug on each end. While it would work it would be unsafe as you could easily get drilled if you plug in the wrong end first. The products that are shown at the top of the page work great for connecting power to a trailer.
 
This shouldn't need to be said, but from the tone of this thread I kind of feel like I should throw it in here.

If you are not familiar with wiring and electrical code to the point where you are completely comfortable tackling such a project, please get help from someone who is qualified. Amateurs who don't know what they are doing often experience problems that range from blown appliances to fires to the occasional electrocution.

Electricity isn't plumbing - it is very unforgiving. Please be careful.
 
This shouldn't need to be said, but from the tone of this thread I kind of feel like I should throw it in here.

If you are not familiar with wiring and electrical code to the point where you are completely comfortable tackling such a project, please get help from someone who is qualified. Amateurs who don't know what they are doing often experience problems that range from blown appliances to fires to the occasional electrocution.

Electricity isn't plumbing - it is very unforgiving. Please be careful.

My point to this thread is to gather and weight out all the options and acquire the specialty parts needed to complete the job, so when I do have an electrician on hand to do it, Im not standing there going "um, I like electricity" when specifics are discussed.
 
If I understand your question correctly, you're looking to have a cord with a male plug on each end. While it would work it would be unsafe as you could easily get drilled if you plug in the wrong end first. The products that are shown at the top of the page work great for connecting power to a trailer.

No suicide cord here. I plan on using the above male plug to go into the trailer then wire to a female outlet on the outside of the trailer. I was asking if anyone has seen the female version of these outlets. The one MikeJ65 posted is what I am talking about (thanks). Just something I can holesaw thru the trailer wall and mount flush to the exterior.
 
I am about to do some wiring myself. I was just going to use the 15A. Just want to run a few outlets and some lights.

Here is a question....Has anyone seen something similar to these but, with the female plug? I am thinking these would an easy/clean solution for a plug-in on the exterior of the trailer.


i looked for that for a good while.. they do have them in the boating world in stainless steel. Mucho bucks.

I purchased a regular GFCI and installed it in a box with an outdoor flush/weatherproof cover on my trailer. Whens its closed, its sits pretty much flush, but it has an accordion type cover that expands when you open it to accommodate 2 plugs. IM looking for it online for u.

on edit:

here it is.. I got it at lowes. It sits nearly flush when closed. You can just open the door and use it like that with the door open, or if you expand it out, so the wires aren't forced to bend when you close the door. They are directed downwards, the door stays closed and everything is completely protected from the weather.

https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...ubbell-TayMac/ML450G/product.aspx?zpid=781974


BTW, absolutely go with the 30 amp. better to have and not need it than the other way around.
 

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That's the cover I use. Menard's stocks them. I like the fact that it is still waterproof with cords plugged in. The conventional covers don't do much when cords are plugged in. I mounted my below the floor, tucked up in the frame rails. It's not as handy to plug in to, but is doesn't get directly rained on either.
 
I think the single most confusing thing about RV electrical that throws folks is the poor choice of names for the various connections. Of the three most common names, only the RV 30amp is accurate. The so-called 20amp connection often has a 15amp breaker behind it, and what we refer to as a 50amp connection is actually two separate 50amp legs, for a total capacity of 100amps! If you'd like to read an explanation of all this, an excellent guide is here: http://www.hrvc.com/console/files/Understanding Your RVs 110v Electrical System.pdf

Once you understand what these plugs are spec'ed to do, it's easy to understand why you often can't run all the devices in your rig at the same time. To make matters worse, the much misunderstood "50amp" 120V RV service is often confused with similar-looking 240V connector used for industrial applications like welders and commercial stoves. Plug into one of those and you'll instantly fry everything in your rig the moment it is turned on.
 
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