Advice for those traveling with comp. trailers.

I got a question, where are you suppose to hook your break away to? I assumed to the safety chain hook.

When I bought my toy hauler, the salesman who was helping me hook the trailer up, decided to sew the break away into the safety chain (to save time, he said) I immediately undid it, looked unsafe to me.
It should be hooked to the tow vehicle somewhere other than the safety chain. If it's intertwined with the chain it may not extend fully in the event of a breakaway and not activate.
 
I posted this elsewhere, but here are a few more things:

- Check the connectors on the battery for the break-away switch. I had to move the battery and holder a few inches and while doing this, I noticed the little spade lugs connectors were barely making connection to the battery. ALSO, the wires that were supposed to be crimped in the spade lugs were far from that. The wire literally fell out of the spade lugs when I touched them.

- While everyone is checking the tire pressure in the trailers, check the pressure in the tow vehicle as well. Over the past 35 years, every time I take any of our trucks in for oil, tire rotation, or whatever service, they always fill the tires (or deflate them) to 32lbs. Every truck we have ever owned clearly says the tire pressure when cold should be 35lbs.

- Also, check those lugs nuts on the trailer tires every now and then... Can be to sure.

I am in the process of purchasing TPMS for the trailer as that will provide a much greater comfort level when towing.
 
Don't forget to keep them wheel bearings lubed up. A lot of cargo trailers and Freedom trailers have the E-Z lube fitting which makes it really easy 5 - 10 mins add grease every 5 - 10k miles. I have found with my RV, I need to take it to get them packed and it costs roughly $80 - $100 an axle.
 
Don't forget to keep them wheel bearings lubed up. A lot of cargo trailers and Freedom trailers have the E-Z lube fitting which makes it really easy 5 - 10 mins add grease every 5 - 10k miles. I have found with my RV, I need to take it to get them packed and it costs roughly $80 - $100 an axle.

Good point. Cars have sealed bearings, trailers don't. People forget. A bearing that overheats can cause the wheel to fall off, generally not a good thing :becky:

RI requires annual inspections of trailers by a dealer, so I use that trip to the dealer to have the bearings repacked and the electric brakes adjusted.
 
Every time we stop to get gas or take a bathroom break,we walk around the trailer and put our hands on the hubs and tires.If you have a tire problem or bearing about to go out it will normally get hot before it does.Always repack your bearings every year at the very least.I have saw a lot of people on the side of the road with a burnt up wheel bearing,if you complete the proper service on your trailer you should not be one of them.Grease is real cheap compared to a tow bill and a garage bill.As most of us travel on the weekends it is not a good time to have a break down.
 
Great info...thanks Brother! Our tires have been on our trailer since 2010...getting new ones this weekend! :thumb:
 
I posted this elsewhere, but here are a few more things:

- Check the connectors on the battery for the break-away switch. I had to move the battery and holder a few inches and while doing this, I noticed the little spade lugs connectors were barely making connection to the battery. ALSO, the wires that were supposed to be crimped in the spade lugs were far from that. The wire literally fell out of the spade lugs when I touched them.

- While everyone is checking the tire pressure in the trailers, check the pressure in the tow vehicle as well. Over the past 35 years, every time I take any of our trucks in for oil, tire rotation, or whatever service, they always fill the tires (or deflate them) to 32lbs. Every truck we have ever owned clearly says the tire pressure when cold should be 35lbs.

- Also, check those lugs nuts on the trailer tires every now and then... Can be to sure.

I am in the process of purchasing TPMS for the trailer as that will provide a much greater comfort level when towing.

Set your tire pressures to the placard on the drivers side door post. Most 3/4 ton trucks with LT tires call for pressures from 50-70psi and may vary from front to rear. The tire may have a max rating but the placard is the factory recommendation.

Most trailers have a tire placard as well.

Set your pressures before every trip and check at your first stop.

Having two spares is also a good idea. :thumb:
 
Ok, so one more thing.

Those of you who have 12volt batteries of your trailer, if you want the car to charge it while you are driving, you need to make sure you have a fuse in the fuse box for that.

On our 2004 Chevy Silverado, the fuse location is under the hood in that big fuse box. The fuse is labeled as STD 1. It is a 40amp fuse. It is not commonly installed from the factory. I found this out when we towed our camper; no 40amp fuse, no charging the battery while driving.

On the 7 pin connector on the tow vehicle, it is the top right pin.
 
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