Wonderful, sounds like a very nice trip! :smile:
And a great wife... :-D
Wonderful, sounds like a very nice trip! :smile:
Get a vice or a B&D workmate, like that has been suggested
Clamp the wood in that, then get a wood blade for the sawsall
that what I do
no need to buy another saw, and the Workmate comes in real handy for other things
I use my ridgid chop saw and if I need it split lengthwise I use my axe or hatchet. The ridgid chop saw has a clamp for holding the wood against the fence but most times I just use my hand with a lot of caution!
Yeah, the Academy Sports bagged pecan chunks is on the right. Always has useless little pieces of kindling I end up having to use for grilling. I love the wood on the left, for 1/10th the cost! Wood is so much fresher as well. I will never buy bagged chunks of wood again. (No wonder some of the bagged wood chunks I buy burn up so fast without producing much smoke flavor--old wood.)
Most wood that is in the big box stores is kiln dried to the point where there is little to no moisture left in the wood, which is why it burns up fast.
I am lucky I have a local supplier for wood that has really good pricing. It also helps he cuts me some breaks since I have been going to him for a couple years now when he was a part time operation.
Do you put your hand within 4 inches of that blade for the final chunk? That's really risky no? I only ever used the clamp on the miter saw and cut dimensional lumber with it (mostly 2x4's). My hand is never near that huge mean looking blade.
I rather use a vice and sawzall or that aligator thingy. That way my hands aren't anywhere near it.
Heavy gloves are always recommended. Use two hands, pressing the blade guard into the wood. This stabilizes the saw, reducing the chance of the blade twisting. If you use a pruning blade, you should not have much of a binding problem. A blade with as few teeth as possible would be the next choice. Binding is more likely to happen when you are using a fine tooth blade.Thanks for all the replies! *smile*. From what everyone told me, it seems like a vice/sawzall or that B&D aligator thing seems safest. Can the sawzall be dangerous if it binds?
It seems to me the blade on a table saw is running toward you, forcing the wood against the fence yet if it bucked it should cause the wood to move away and not toward you,
Thanks for all the replies! *smile*. From what everyone told me, it seems like a vice/sawzall or that B&D aligator thing seems safest. Can the sawzall be dangerous if it binds?
You couldn't be more wrong
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tablesaw kickback&sm=3
I'm kinda sick at my stomach right now. There are no local wood sources like that here in the desert Southwest.
I did notice the wood I cut here on the farm lasts longer than what I buy. I thought it was just me maybe not having it seasoned enough. Maybe not.