UNCMo96
Well-known member
The TL
R question is: if you are replacing the bulkhead/regulator on a natural gas grill do you need to use pipe dope on the connections inside the grill? When I look at the bulkhead I don't see pipe dope or teflon on the hose and manifold connections but it seems like I should use it?
Here's the backstory for those that are interested:
I have a Weber Summit S-650 that I've had since 2007. Last year I noticed the grill wasn't heating up anywhere near full temp (was getting only to 400 or 500). I replaced all the burner tubes and still no luck. This year it barely gets to 200. I had the Natural gas people come out and check the gas line and I was getting 6.4 inches of water column at the quick disconnect.
I called a shop to service the grill and the guy on the phone told me that it could be the regulator. He suggested turning on burners in succession and if the flames start to dwindle then theres your answer. I checked it out and low and behold the flames were dwindling.
R question is: if you are replacing the bulkhead/regulator on a natural gas grill do you need to use pipe dope on the connections inside the grill? When I look at the bulkhead I don't see pipe dope or teflon on the hose and manifold connections but it seems like I should use it?Here's the backstory for those that are interested:
I have a Weber Summit S-650 that I've had since 2007. Last year I noticed the grill wasn't heating up anywhere near full temp (was getting only to 400 or 500). I replaced all the burner tubes and still no luck. This year it barely gets to 200. I had the Natural gas people come out and check the gas line and I was getting 6.4 inches of water column at the quick disconnect.
I called a shop to service the grill and the guy on the phone told me that it could be the regulator. He suggested turning on burners in succession and if the flames start to dwindle then theres your answer. I checked it out and low and behold the flames were dwindling.
