Temperature regulation charcoal vs wood

DECENT BBQ

Knows what a fatty is.
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Location
Seattle, WA
Name or Nickame
Derrick
Hey guys
First ever post, have a question regarding my offset smoker. Currently using a Chargriller Competition Pro 8125 with diffuser plates from bbqsmokermods. For a typical cook I like to use hickory wood logs for the first part of the smoke, then switch over to charcoal (regular ol' kingsford) once everything is wrapped. What I have noticed is that the temperature needs almost zero regulation when using charcoal (with a basket). The wood logs require much more attention, I usually have to adjust the vents 1-2 times an hour between logs.

Another interesting observation is the temperatures on either end of the smoke chamber (I mounted 2 tel-tru's on either end at grate level) are always consistently off by ~100* when using wood (example, left side is at 225*, right side next to firebox is at 325*). When using charcoal in a basket, the temps left to right are within 25-50*.

I've been trying to wrap my head around this, as I have no explanation. I'm speculating it has something to do with the off gasses produced by wood vs charcoal when burning, but was hoping someone could help me understand whats going on here.

I also plan on trying out some lump charcoal this weekend to see what that does to the temps as well.

Thanks everyone!
 
Sounds pretty typical for that type of offset. They are harder to control temps with their thinner metal. You might have better luck evening out temps side to side with smaller splits. Charcoal will give a more even temp because of the consistent size and how it burns more evenly in the basket instead of spiking temps when a log is added.

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thicker tuning plates 1/8" thick that are cut into 6" width and you can space is better and will even temps out and do not know what you have without a pic ?
 
it is a stick burner and would just use splits but need to be small in diameter splits and cut in half and I never use charcoal in a stick burner . just burn a clean small fire and a cheaper pit it and is a little harder to maintain a steady temp because of the thin metal .
 
If you are burning a clean fire. Exh wide open..always. You are/or should be using almost 2 times the air flow. To keep splits actually burning. Compared to burning/using coal. Which requires restricted air flow or your coal would burn up pretty quick. IMHO, that is your temp difference across the cooker between both methods. Changing/adjusting or eliminating the baffles would help. But, you have to decide which method you want to work to get more even heat across the grate. Different air flows requires different methods/mods for even temps.
Also, you shouldn't have to adjust your intake much when burning splits. Typically you need a bit more air than the full open intake allows. If you have an end firebox door, use it. You should be able to find a sweet spot.
Once set to keep a clean burning fire. You are cooking in a temp range.
Example would be when the pit drops to 250* you add a SMALL split. Temp will rise as the split catches fire. Typically to 300*. Then settle down and slowly drop to 250* again. Add pre-heated split and repeat. Your cook will average 275* thru out the cook. If that makes sense.
The smaller pits require smaller splits. Pop can or smaller for lower temp spikes. And more even cooking thru out the cook. You can try large wood chunks just to see how long of a burn you would get.
Lump can burn hotter than briquettes in my experience.
My homebuilt offset is "thin" metal and smaller, but I use the same or less wood than when cooking on a 24x65 or 30x80 quality smoker. (I'm lucky that I get to use quite a few different smokers) I use smaller and shorter splits. Out of each typical split where you would use the one for a quality smoker. I get 6 splits for burning and the same or more of wood chunks for using with coal out of that one original split. I like tending a fire, so I don't mind adding a split every 20-30 mins.
 

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