woodmeister
Found some matches.
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2009
- Location
- rancho...
My guru
Components:
1. 12vdc computer cooling fan,
Wired to the output of the adaptor
2. Ac adaptor (input 110vac, output 12vdc),
Input wired to the output of the electric skillet control unit
3.Electric skillet control unit, installed with temp sensing probe in the center of the
cook tank, at grate level
4. Heat transferring attachment, attaches to probe on the skillet controller.
From a piece of copper pipe and a small round steel pan, I fashioned a metal monstrosity to transfer heat from the center of the pit to the control unit’s stubby little temperature sensing probe.
I cut a hole in my cooker’s shelf so that the control unit’s probe could enter the cooking chamber just below grill level. This allowed the unit to mount flush with the surface of the shelf, and it’s cord to be routed under it.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the frying pan control unit and stuck a short piece of electrical cord with a female end through it. I soldered the cord to the110 ac output contacts in the control unit.
I screwed a couple of short strips of aluminum T-bar to the bottom of the shelf to support the bottom of the control unit. To make it possible to tie wrap the ac adapter to the bottom of the shelf, I drilled some holes in the part of the T-bar that extended downward below the shelf.
To make the legs for the fan motor, I took four pieces of copper wire and wrapped them around a rod to form coils. On one end of each coil, I attached a magnet. I attached the other end to a corner of the cooling fan.
I cut the connector off of the output wire of the ac adaptor, and hard-wired it to the fan motor.
I wrapped the ac-in and dc-out wires together and strapped them to the back leg of the smoker. From there, I allowed the dc-out wire to drape low over to the fan motor to avoid the intense heat of the firebox.
I stuck the magnetic feet of my blower to the firebox around the air intake, and bent the legs so the fan would blow directly into the intake.
.
If you are not aware of how the control unit for an electric skillet works, here is a brief description. The unit receives 110vac when it is plugged in. The two female contacts on either side of the large temperature-sensing probe send that power to the heating element of the skillet. The large center probe feels the temperature of the pan, and turns the power to the heating element on and off as needed, based on the temperature selected by the control knob.
Note: When using this setup, it is not intended that you rely on the temperature settings on the skillet control unit. I recommend you fire up the smoker, and turn the controller all the way up, so the fan is on all the time. When the cooking chamber reaches the desired temperature, (based on a remote thermometer at grill level in the cook tank) slowly turn the skillet control down until the fan stops. With a little tweaking, that setting should maintain the desired temp.
Components:
1. 12vdc computer cooling fan,
Wired to the output of the adaptor
2. Ac adaptor (input 110vac, output 12vdc),
Input wired to the output of the electric skillet control unit
3.Electric skillet control unit, installed with temp sensing probe in the center of the
cook tank, at grate level
4. Heat transferring attachment, attaches to probe on the skillet controller.
From a piece of copper pipe and a small round steel pan, I fashioned a metal monstrosity to transfer heat from the center of the pit to the control unit’s stubby little temperature sensing probe.
I cut a hole in my cooker’s shelf so that the control unit’s probe could enter the cooking chamber just below grill level. This allowed the unit to mount flush with the surface of the shelf, and it’s cord to be routed under it.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the frying pan control unit and stuck a short piece of electrical cord with a female end through it. I soldered the cord to the110 ac output contacts in the control unit.
I screwed a couple of short strips of aluminum T-bar to the bottom of the shelf to support the bottom of the control unit. To make it possible to tie wrap the ac adapter to the bottom of the shelf, I drilled some holes in the part of the T-bar that extended downward below the shelf.
To make the legs for the fan motor, I took four pieces of copper wire and wrapped them around a rod to form coils. On one end of each coil, I attached a magnet. I attached the other end to a corner of the cooling fan.
I cut the connector off of the output wire of the ac adaptor, and hard-wired it to the fan motor.
I wrapped the ac-in and dc-out wires together and strapped them to the back leg of the smoker. From there, I allowed the dc-out wire to drape low over to the fan motor to avoid the intense heat of the firebox.
I stuck the magnetic feet of my blower to the firebox around the air intake, and bent the legs so the fan would blow directly into the intake.
.
If you are not aware of how the control unit for an electric skillet works, here is a brief description. The unit receives 110vac when it is plugged in. The two female contacts on either side of the large temperature-sensing probe send that power to the heating element of the skillet. The large center probe feels the temperature of the pan, and turns the power to the heating element on and off as needed, based on the temperature selected by the control knob.
Note: When using this setup, it is not intended that you rely on the temperature settings on the skillet control unit. I recommend you fire up the smoker, and turn the controller all the way up, so the fan is on all the time. When the cooking chamber reaches the desired temperature, (based on a remote thermometer at grill level in the cook tank) slowly turn the skillet control down until the fan stops. With a little tweaking, that setting should maintain the desired temp.
