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Unread 04-01-2011, 03:17 PM   #31
PCFisher66
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There is some people on the BGE forum that use this.
Permatex® Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

Tod
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Unread 04-01-2011, 03:58 PM   #32
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Tod that's very helpful. Is the thought that the silicone is a better solution than the Nomex?
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Unread 04-01-2011, 04:44 PM   #33
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There were thoughts going back and forth about that, the main thing was it was an alternative to the fabric gasket. With the silicone it only had to be applied to one surface. One person also made a jig so after it was applied it could be shaped to have square sides as opposed to round.

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Unread 04-01-2011, 05:03 PM   #34
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I saw quite a few threads along that line. I will dig deeper. The Permatex sealant has been used as an adhesive for a gasket (not Nomex) as well as the gasket itself as you mentioned.

I'll look into this more. very good lead. Thank you for offering that
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Unread 04-01-2011, 06:05 PM   #35
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I suggest just get the NOMEX gasket and use 3M Super 77 spray. I burnt mine the 1st week I owned it. Replaced with the above and no more issues. You should always do the dollar bill test (closing the lid with a bill between the surfaces to test for seal) after the gasket is replaced. Then do several low temp cooks before ever doing a high temp cook. This will help set and cure the gasket.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 06:19 PM   #36
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I recently received the white, felt like replacement gasket from BGE. They recommend the 3M Super 77 spray on adhesive after cleaning the old gasket off with a scraper and acetone. Do some remove the hinges and take the top off to do this, or can I just leave things hooked together?
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Unread 04-01-2011, 06:26 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FretBender View Post
I recently received the white, felt like replacement gasket from BGE. They recommend the 3M Super 77 spray on adhesive after cleaning the old gasket off with a scraper and acetone. Do some remove the hinges and take the top off to do this, or can I just leave things hooked together?
It will be much easier to work with if you remove the dome to replace the gaskets. The key to success is to have a very clean surface to work with when replacing the new gasket.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 06:40 PM   #38
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I have replaced the seal with the dome on but it's tight in the back. No issues. I usually put the seam on the side. Works out good. I don't 'cure' mine either. Preheat is enough IMO.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 07:33 PM   #39
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Yo Ted-

Don't feel like the lone stranger on the gasket!

I've been in the same situation, bought my second Large at the Eggfest and the friggin' gasket was toast before the meat hit the grill! The thermometer was off @75* and guess what? The replacement felt gasket they gave me didn't last any longer!



...So here is what you do-

You call the Mothership and explain the situation, and they will send you a roll of Nomex.

Yeah its a PITA, but it happens, we don't want it to happen to us, but sometimes it does, but Big Green Egg stands behind their products- they aren't sittin' around reading the other forums to see what will go wrong with your or my Egg, but they will try to keep us happy customers.

just sayin'
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Unread 04-01-2011, 08:15 PM   #40
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If you replace the gasket, make sure you do the dollar bill test.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 08:43 PM   #41
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From reading this I guess getting just about 2 years out of mine is good. Getting ready to replace mine.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 09:16 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {Midnight ☼ Smoke} View Post
I suggest just get the NOMEX gasket and use 3M Super 77 spray. I burnt mine the 1st week I owned it. Replaced with the above and no more issues. You should always do the dollar bill test (closing the lid with a bill between the surfaces to test for seal) after the gasket is replaced. Then do several low temp cooks before ever doing a high temp cook. This will help set and cure the gasket.
I too burnt mine up like this and after replacing per my earlier post, I have not had a single issue, one year later........

If you don't have a pretty good seal it is really difficult to maintain temps over a long cook, take it apart to replace the seal and you will get a true seal after replacing the gasket!
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Unread 04-02-2011, 11:29 AM   #43
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Reading many many posts and threads here and on other forums, it seems the largest group favor the use of the Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone only... no Nomex, no Rutland, no Coltronics gaskets at all. Just the slightly soft Permatex.

Clearly the most difficult to apply but highest temp / survivability rated
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Unread 04-03-2011, 01:41 PM   #44
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Seems like the best approach so far is to put a thick bead of the Permatex Copper on the lip of the cleaned base, with voids at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Place saran wrap over the bead, place some small wooden dowels ( 1/4") in the voids, close the lid, and wait 24 hours.

Then take more Permatex, fill in the voids where the dowels were, place saran wrap over them, close the lid, and wait another 24 hours.

A small cut(s) can be made in the seal for probe wires.

Use warm Permatex tubes. Plastic nozzle off.

Either remove the bottom band or tape the area off so cleanup is easier.

The whole process is easier of the entire unit is at room temp. I suppose it will flow better when warm before it starts to stiffen up.

Sounds like I'll need 4-5 tubes for a thicker gasket on my Large Egg. One fellow used 4 tubes on a medium Egg. Another guy used 2.5 tubes on his Large but I like the idea of a thicker gasket.

Many people feel great about having no gasket. That’s fine, but there is value in having the unit sealed. In my opinion. So I’m not interested in running bareback at this time.

Many people replaced their units with Nomex and are happy. Others fried Nomex also and quickly. So Nomex seems to be a better solution that stock gasket, but not the highest temp rated goal that I have.

Others still went with the Rutland or Cotronics gaskets. Glued down with a gasket maker product from Permatex. There were some concerns about the Rutland and the fiberglass. I have no information as to the real hazard that may or may not exist with the fiberglass particles.

Obviously any Permatex used to secure the Rutland will be exposed to the same air and heat and the Rutland will not shield your food from anything coming out of the Permatex.

Clearly any fiberous gasket material might cause some person some concern. I would have gone with a Rutland + Permatex solution, except there are a lot of people that created a gasket only out of the Permatex gasket maker. No fiberous gasket. Hmmm…

1- Permatex + Rutland works “OK"
2- but Rutland may have some fiber hazard
3- and omitting Rutland leaves just the Permatex
4- And a surprising number of people like just Permatex

Seems like a logical conclusion to simply eliminate the fiber portion of the solution and go all Permatex.

Then the question opens up about which Permatex. Go with the Red that is food service compliant, or the Copper that is 50 degrees F. higher rated. I looked at the MSDS sheet for both and they both look frightening. I’ll be calling their technical services department tomorrow. I want to know if any of the hazards extend beyond the curing period. I want to know if the Copper is not food compliant because of a particular included ingredient OR if Permatex simply didn’t want to pay UL Labs $50k for a fire test and chemical analysis of the Copper when they already had an approved Red.

My guess (speculation) is that the Copper is fine or at least equal to the Red. The hazards are during cure and a heating after cure to purge remaining unreacted components and solvents will render either the Red or Copper essentially (equally) inert. That’s my guess. We’ll see.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 01:25 PM   #45
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Just an update. My hunch was correct. I just spoke with Permatex technical support. Both the Red and the Copper are inert after cure. Neither will degrade and kill us. Specifically, there's no benefit to using the Red around our grilles. Go for the copper.
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