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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 07-24-2008, 03:20 PM   #1
Ron_L
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Default BGE Table "Plans"

One of the friends who was at our house on Sunday offered to make a table for my Large Eggs. I haven't been able to find plans for a table to hold two large Eggs so I adapted plans that I found for a single Egg table. These are not really plans but more of a high level drawing showing dimensions, but I was wondering if some of you who are skilled in woodworking could look these over for me. Does the overall design make sense? If I gave you this drawing would you be able to build a table from it? Any suggestions for improvements, etc? Have you seen actual plans for a two Egg table?



I have this as a Visio drawing if anyone wants to add to it for me
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:22 PM   #2
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That's a long table. I would add a second shelf for storage.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:33 PM   #3
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My experience is that 16" is incorrect for the space between two shelves. That measurement seems to be from when the Eggs had the old style hinge. When I made my table with the plans from Naked Whiz and BGE, the lid wouldn't open all the way. I had to lift it with bigger bricks. Go measure you Eggs with the lids open and see if 16" is enough.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:34 PM   #4
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Consider a 36" high table. A better working height for us tall guys.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plowboy View Post
My experience is that 16" is incorrect for the space between two shelves. That measurement seems to be from when the Eggs had the old style hinge. When I made my table with the plans from Naked Whiz and BGE, the lid wouldn't open all the way. I had to lift it with bigger bricks. Go measure you Eggs with the lids open and see if 16" is enough.
Actually, the measurement for the old stle hinge is 17". The measurement for the spring assist is 15", but I have two round concrete patio stones that I will be putting under the Eggs and they are 1 3/4" thick, so i dropped the shelf by 1" (to 16") since the Egg will be 1 3/4 higher when it is on the concrete stone. Does that make sense?
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:39 PM   #6
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Only thing I might do if I were to do mine over is to make it a but wider - 28 to 32 inches. Other than that, you're lookin' good!
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron_L View Post
Actually, the measurement for the old stle hinge is 17". The measurement for the spring assist is 15", but I have two round concrete patio stones that I will be putting under the Eggs and they are 1 3/4" thick, so i dropped the shelf by 1" (to 16") since the Egg will be 1 3/4 higher when it is on the concrete stone. Does that make sense?
As long as you've measured it, you should be good to go.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:44 PM   #8
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here is a couple pics of my egg table, two holes. Original table included large and medium eggs with open shelving. The modifications took it to a final plan for xl and large with two drawers and one cabinet. I will say the drop down side leaves are real handy. I don't really have plans but it works for me.





Just noticed in the last picture the rotisserie set up on the medium.......that was a fun project that made killer whole chicken.

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Old 07-24-2008, 03:46 PM   #9
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I would put 4 x 4 post in the outside corners. Make it 34" H.Give you the option to add maybe 2 bid wheels with and axle on one side and casters on the other if you should decide to in the future. Over hang the top slats over the frame a little more at least 1" or more
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjv View Post
here is a couple pics of my egg table, two holes. Original table included large and medium eggs with open shelving. The modifications took it to a final plan for xl and large with two drawers and one cabinet. I will say the drop down side leaves are real handy. I don't really have plans but it works for me.



I was going to suggest doors and drawers but you beat me to it
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:00 PM   #11
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Yep, doors in the middle. Is that a Corian top on yours tjv? Been toying with that idea.

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Old 07-24-2008, 04:49 PM   #12
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This was a Cypress Big Green Egg table that I modified to fit the Imperial Kamado and the LBGE. The tile between them is 12"x12" and then I added fold down side tables, topped with Ipe decking. Still isn't long enough IMO. If I were to do it over, I'd place them closer together and have a larger work space on the ends.





I really dig tjv's rotisserie!!
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:53 PM   #13
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The doors and drawers are very nice.
I personally would want a bigger work space between the eggs.
You could visit the naked whiz site and cut the design in half and use a mirror image as a working drawing.
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:01 PM   #14
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here's a couple of things you might want to consider...

a hole for ash removal. the boards on the lower support shelf make it difficult to remove the ash without making a mess.

a u shaped, open face hole instead of a circle hole so you can get the eggs in and out easier. that is, if you ever plan on moving them.

this guy on the big green egg forum did all kinds of testing on the temp under the egg and the results are hosted on the naked whiz's site...
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:43 PM   #15
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I went to Sam's, got a Seville stainless steel table and had a buddy cut a hole in the side. The table is 4ft long, so just like the plans. We welded the shelf on and reinforced the cut hole. I have two of them and put together I have about 5ft of stainless steel work area. Very nice to clean up. I had a long table like you described but it is now sagging a little and it was just hard to keep clean.
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