Ugly drum smoker questions

Rusty Kettle

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Ok so why does every plan to build one have 4 holes on the bottom with 3 of them being capped? I get adding a ball valve but does it need 3 capped holes to work? Why? Please explain how it works. Thanks.
 
You leave all 4 open to get your UDS up to temp, then once at temp you screw them back on and control the airflow and temp with the one ball valve.

I have 3 holes on mine, 2 controlled with ball valves, and one with a cap. You will get a whole bunch of different responses to what works for everyone's UDS as a lot of us have different configurations, customizations, etc, but they all work. It takes a few cooks to figure out how you UDS likes to run, and to figure out airflow, but that's part of the fun. Good luck.
 
mine has 4 holes and depending on the wind I can swap holes to control the air coming in. I use the hole on the down wind side.
 
I have one a little 14.5" one that is ok but not my favorite. WSM seem to be poorly designed at least as far as no ash sweeper goes.

I've never had much of a problem on my 18, just a tap or 2 on the bowl. I have heard of a build up problem on the 14.
 
Maybe the larger one is better but the 14" has major ash build up problems. It chokes the fire down. It took almost 20 hours to do a pork butt because of ash build up.
 
My BDS's have 3 lower vent holes that use snap-in plugs. I have full plugs and some with small holes in them to fine tune the pit temp. I rotate the plugs depending on the wind direction. Even if you go with ball valves on your design, one advantage to having one snap-in plug is so you can use a wiggle rod on your charcoal.
 
I have three holes, one with a ball valve. I'd recommend to have at least two or three larger holes (1"+) and one more with a large ball valve (1"+). I run it wide open to running it only with 3/4" ball valve depending on conditions/heat goal.
 
My BDS's have 3 lower vent holes that use snap-in plugs. I have full plugs and some with small holes in them to fine tune the pit temp. I rotate the plugs depending on the wind direction. Even if you go with ball valves on your design, one advantage to having one snap-in plug is so you can use a wiggle rod on your charcoal.

Very good point here! Gotta stick a piece of re-bar thru a bottom vent to shake off the ash at about the 6 hour mark on mine.
 
Ok so why does every plan to build one have 4 holes on the bottom with 3 of them being capped? I get adding a ball valve but does it need 3 capped holes to work? Why? Please explain how it works. Thanks.
It is all about air flow in/out to be able to control the required temp. As you add more mass/meat the more airflow it is going to take to get everything to the cooking temp. Add in, the differences in air temp, air moisture, air pressure, if your using any "used coals" and you will require more air flow. It is always better to have access to more air when required than to wish you had more available air and not have it. I can go from 250 to 650+ degrees in 15 minutes with the way I built my drums. Only due to airflow control.
 
I have 3 with 2 x 3/4" ball valves. I have them all open, cap the back and use the 2 valves to keep it stead. I found that I was having some issues if I just had 1, even if it was opened all the way. I have better control with the 2 and have had good success with it.
 
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