Outside grilling table underway, thoughts?

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Mustang67ford

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Hello, first post here. Find this site while doing some searching on a grilling table I'm looking to make. Here is a pic of the 2.75" think red oak countertop I plan to use. It is about 6'-6" x 24". I plan to place a 3 burner antique eric no. 3 stove on it and then a small lodge sportsman grill. I'm trying to figure out what to seal the wood with and also would like to make some type of lid that will hinge open to cover the entire counter and stove. I am thinking either a marine poly or boiled linseed to seal the wood. Looked at aluminum for the cover, but quite expensive. Then I looked at using the top of a lifetime plastic table but then need to figure out the sides and hingeing so not sure.

As for the base, since this will go by my retaining wall, I am not sure if I will use treated lumber or blocks glued together. If blocks, i will probably have door to conceal propane tank and store pans etc. Maybe wood frame and stone veneer.

Lastly, and this is a far fetched, but I would also like a fireplace. Something simple to put beside the counter.

Any suggeationa would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Welocme to the best site on the web! Heckuva plan you have there, I'm looking forward to seeing it come together! Glad you're here!
 
Thanks. Big plans, but at a standstill til I figure out a way to do the cover. I keep a small webber Q series under cover on my back porch, but don't want to do any charcoal or cast iron cooking on the porch. I have a nice concrete patio, but not under roof.
 
Not sure on your weather but I used a Marine Two Pack on my outdoor bench, its holding up well about 3or4 years
Its in a Summer hot and winter damp area, slightly shelterer.
I used Garage shelving frame as a base, you can add doors and have a solid unit
 
Welcome to the best Que site around, you will find great people and tons of information here that will really help you.
After years in the Marine Industry, as a shipwright, I would suggest you use E-Bond clear sealer for you wood table. I works good as a bar top pour and holds up to abuse and heat. It is a two part epoxy and has a strong UV resistance. Being you are not under cover, it will take your northern weather conditions well. You can build it up after the first thin sealer coat to whatever thickness you want with a light sanding in between.
You can find E-Bond on the net, it is made in Fort Lauderdale Fl so you can contact them directly. I have used it for years and swear by it, especially for exterior use.

Hope that helps, looking forward to the pics of the final product.
 
TC Smoke & Que said:
Welcome to the best Que site around, you will find great people and tons of information here that will really help you.
After years in the Marine Industry, as a shipwright, I would suggest you use E-Bond clear sealer for you wood table. I works good as a bar top pour and holds up to abuse and heat. It is a two part epoxy and has a strong UV resistance. Being you are not under cover, it will take your northern weather conditions well. You can build it up after the first thin sealer coat to whatever thickness you want with a light sanding in between.
You can find E-Bond on the net, it is made in Fort Lauderdale Fl so you can contact them directly. I have used it for years and swear by it, especially for exterior use.

Hope that helps, looking forward to the pics of the final product.
Click to expand...

So your proposing putting this on it and just let it exposed to the elements; sun, rain, snow, etc as opposed to building a cover for the entire counter? If so, I like the idea.
 
Mustang67ford said:
So your proposing putting this on it and just let it exposed to the elements; sun, rain, snow, etc as opposed to building a cover for the entire counter? If so, I like the idea.
Click to expand...

If you can afford both, build the cover also. The sun (UV exposure) is kryptonite when it comes to an exterior wood finish.
 
Mustang67ford said:
So your proposing putting this on it and just let it exposed to the elements; sun, rain, snow, etc as opposed to building a cover for the entire counter? If so, I like the idea.
Click to expand...

Yes, that epoxy is one of the toughest and longest lasting I have ever found. It absorbs well into the wood. Oak is a tight grain, but you will get some penetration and create a good solid surface to start a build up with. After you get the sanding scratches out to smooth (with the grain) 180 grit paper, then do a good denatured alch wipe down and then start brushing on thin coats (2-3) until it is no longer absorbing.
Let dry and cure 2-3 days (@ temps above 60, higher perferred)
Then you can do a light sand and build coats 1 at a time. Let each dry / set for at least 24 hrs. As deep as you want.

I have used this as a bar pour after the inital coat, but had to build a dam edge on the edge of the bar, easier to coat 1 at a time.

Hope that helps.
 
TC Smoke & Que said:
Yes, that epoxy is one of the toughest and longest lasting I have ever found. It absorbs well into the wood. Oak is a tight grain, but you will get some penetration and create a good solid surface to start a build up with. After you get the sanding scratches out to smooth (with the grain) 180 grit paper, then do a good denatured alch wipe down and then start brushing on thin coats (2-3) until it is no longer absorbing.
Let dry and cure 2-3 days (@ temps above 60, higher perferred)
Then you can do a light sand and build coats 1 at a time. Let each dry / set for at least 24 hrs. As deep as you want.

I have used this as a bar pour after the inital coat, but had to build a dam edge on the edge of the bar, easier to coat 1 at a time.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks will do some investigating into it. The wood was stacked outside and weathered before cutting and sanding. Since placing it in the garage, I noticed some minor splitting occurring. Guess i should let it set for a while before applying so no splitting afterwards. Would hate to see cracks in the new finish. Also, need to see what temps it will bde good for because I plan to set the lodge sportsman grill right on it and im sure it will get hot.
 
frankenfab said:
Mkae sure it has a dinner bell or triangle. That old burner is really cool!
Click to expand...

Thanks, been trying to find info on it and cant. I think it says eirher Eric No.3 or Erie No.3 making if possibly an early griswold. There is not much info on these.
 
ModelMaker said:
Uhm sir, the front edge of your table top is all squiggly. Do you have a table saw?
Ed
Click to expand...


Squiggly is all the rage now, with the live edge countertops. (assume you already knew that!)


I have used Waterlox marine finish on kitchen countertops and just finished an outdoor kitchen in rough cypress with same. One advantage of it is that when it weathers you can apply another coat, it is not a "hard" drying finish like epoxy.
 
Oh the beauty of that rough edge!

I tried to get back the other day, but was pulled away.
I would avoid any mineral spirits based products for the outside in the weather and considering the heat factor. They tend to break down faster and recoating becomes a constant event ( read Pain in ***).

With the cracking, the E bond is as thin as water so it will fill the cracks and stop them from getting bigger. Just add some saw dust to make a putty and fill and sand smooth after set for the larger cracks. Plus, it will absorb into the remaining bark on the edge and help hold it to the body keeping that rustic look, and protect it from falling off after being weathered over time.
I dont work for E Bond, just know the product well and find it to be superior (and cheaper in cost) to many other epoxies out there after many years of use.

I know what it is like to want that "Just Perfect" finish and durability.

Good luck.
 
Welcome from a fellow WM owner!

i-tD8btJr-XL.jpg
 
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