Pit rehab question?

BigBobBQ · Sep 28, 2014

Ok I have a question for all of the Brethren. Some of you saw my post where I rescued a older New Braunsfel Oklahoma Joe offset this week to refurbish it. My question is I have spent all morning working on rust removal. I started with just the firebox top lid since the hinges had rusted of so it was easy to move. It has some pretty good surface rust from sitting in the weather for years. I have been hours with a drill and wire brush cleaning it off and can not get it down to shiny bare metal. It removes all of the rust but it still has a brown rusty tint to the steel. It does look better after wiping it with a wet rag but still not shiny metal. Tried to find a sandblaster but no go locally. I am not looking for a showroom finish but functional that will last. Is there another way to get the shiny metal back? Or do I just remove everything the wire wheel can get, wash with soap and water, dry, clean with denatured alcohol, and paint it with some high temp paint. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Smokesignalsfromtx · Sep 28, 2014

I think your best bet will be a 4" grinder with a stuff wire wheel or a metal sanding disk like this

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-...-Grit-Flap-Disc-Type-27-48-80-8202/203112819/

revkab · Sep 28, 2014

Tis is where either a disk sander or a random orbit sander comes in awfully handy. If you have one of those angle grinders (either the large size or the small size), simply get the disk sanding attachments. Those are the fastest and most aggressive, and will murder the rust, leaving a nice, shiny, paintable surface. The random orbit sanders are a little slower for this sort of thing, but if you have one, it will work fine.

Go for very coarse grits like 50 or 80 to get the rust gone.

For a project like yours, I would consider a little 4" angle grinder a worthwhile investment, as you can easily grind out welds, such as your rusted out hinges, and get the surface ready to weld on new hinges. Then just put on the disk sanding backer and make it all look real pretty.

revkab · Sep 28, 2014

DeWalt is pretty inexpensive, and a good tool:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28402K-2-Inch-Small-Angle-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411930203&sr=8-1&keywords=DeWalt+angle+grinder"]DEWALT D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41T55tCmyyL.@@AMEPARAM@@41T55tCmyyL[/ame]

and

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4945-2-Inch-Backing-Locking/dp/B00004RHAT/ref=pd_sim_hi_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WN0NRX16WEE39QD4KKH"]DEWALT DW4945 4-1/2-Inch Rubber Backing Pad with Locking Nut - Power Sander Accessories - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41KnSUcc1VL.@@AMEPARAM@@41KnSUcc1VL[/ame]

mykeystoy · Sep 28, 2014

Just make sure it is the more common one.. I have a 4" and half the stuff will not work with my grinder.. I admit I have not checked online for accessories. It is a very handy tool though.

morgaj1 · Sep 28, 2014

You won't be able to generate the speeds you need for good rust removal with a drill. I would recommend getting a 4.5" angle grinder. Don't be tempted to go with the cheaper 4" model, as the grinding disc selection is better with the 4.5". Also, I have found this type of disc to work really well removing rust without removing metal:

http://www.eastwood.com/poly-x-paint-and-rustremoval-disc-4-in-cup-style.html

TuscaloosaQ · Sep 28, 2014

Any welding supply place will have just what you need... Tell them what you r doing... There are tons of different types of buffing wheels to use... A couple of flapper wheels or tiger paws will do the trick.... The welding supply store is your friend.... I would go to lowes and get a 4/12 inch grinder dewalt is good.... But more expensive.... Sears has them ... You can get them that have different amp ratings ... For your purpose you do not need a high dollar grinder.... That is my take..... Again tell the guys at the welding supply store what you r doing .... So many new items out.... A lot of good ones...

Mo-Dave · Sep 28, 2014

It looks as if the outer surface is pitted, if that is so and the pits are deep you would have to remove a lot of metal, I suggest just give it a good coat of high heat paint from a can not a rattle can. Don't try to hide them with more paint it will only enhance them even more, although an extra coat of paint wont hurt it any. Get the ruff stuff with a scraper on the inside, don't worry about taking it down to bear metal on the inside, slap some cooking oil in it with a brush and light it up for a good seasoning. Then get busy cooking with it so you can start thinking about what modes you will want to make.
Dave

dwfisk · Sep 28, 2014

For the outside: I've found that after you get what you can with a grinder/sander that a light coat of Ospho will set up a chemical reaction that binds and remaining rust. Let that sit for 24 hours, wipe it down with a good prep cleaner, acetone or alcohol and paint. I do not use Ospho or paint the inside of the pit, just season with a food grade oil.

BigBobBQ · Sep 28, 2014

The smoke chamber is not bad at all, it is getting down to bare metal, just the firebox is so bad. I will hit it with a grinder then wash, prep and paint it.

SmittyJonz · Sep 28, 2014

Painting a FB is a losing battle - get As much as you can off and rub Crisco all over it as it cools for a few cooks .

Offthehook · Sep 28, 2014

SmittyJonz said:
Painting a FB is a losing battle - get As much as you can off and rub Crisco all over it as it cools for a few cooks .

Ive had ok luck with high temp engine/exhaust paint and baking it on.

BigBobBQ · Sep 28, 2014

yeah I figure painting it is not the best, but it might help keep the rust at bay and I will for sure keep it wiped down with oil after each cook.

Titch · Oct 16, 2014

Great post and answers folks. thank you:thumb:

el_matt · Oct 16, 2014

I'm sure it's not cost effective, but has anyone had their firebox or whole cooker painted in Weber type paint? It would have to be professionally done, but I imagine that paint isn't coming off. Most of us have vintage Webers and we know how strong that paint is.

Just a thought.

Matt

Untraceable · Oct 16, 2014

Its a ceramic coating

STCL01 · Oct 16, 2014

Depends on whether you are going to use the grinder again. I do some welding and also use my grinder with flapper wheels to sharpen lawnmower blades. What I'm getting at is that by the time you get the grinder, the discs, etc., if you are not going to use them again, you could probably have the pit sandblasted. A good blast will get it cleaner than a grinder, and save you a lot of time. You can then paint it with a cheap spray rig if you have a compressor, or even by hand.

Pit rehab question?

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