How do you know you have enough draft / airflow in stick burner?

rikun

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Okay, this might seem like a weird question...

But, how do you know you have good draft / airflow in your RF offset smoker? How do you know if you have too much? Can you have too much?
I've built my own a few years ago and ran it around 30 times, always having some kind of trouble. I think I have pretty good draft, but I'm not entirely sure.
At the time of my build, I studied all the builds very closely and modeled mine after Feldon's calculator and then added some 50% to the critical points (throat size, area under RF plate and the gap at the end, firebox is 109%).

I mean, the fire burns nicely and splits catch fire immediately. But, I have a really hard time maintaining a small fire, I have to choke down the intake air almost closed and sometimes the fire will go out if I do that.
But if I open it even a hair more, I get a raging fire with flames almost up to the firebox top. Granted, I oversized my inlets a lot (like almost 300-500%) according to Feldon's calculator so I might need to close them down permanently a bit.
Also my splits burn in around 15-20 minutes, so that doesn't seem right... They are a little bit bigger than my wrist.

The food never tastes bitter, quite the opposite, the smoke flavor is very very subdued. I know it should be subtle with stick burner, but I've never had BBQ from other stick burners with this little smoke flavor. I mainly burn Oak, Hickory or stronger woods aren't available here.

I'm getting kinda tired battling with this smoker, almost seems that she's impossible to control. I've read all the guides to stick burning and I think I'm not doing anything wrong, smoke is sweet blue to translucent.
 
Sounds like your wood is too dry. Burning up that quickly sounds like it's over seasoned. Do you start the fire with lump or small wood to set a coal bed? Do you lose the coal bed during the cook?

Edit: have you tried bigger splits? They burn longer and start slower. Might help stabilize temps and get more smoke flavor.
 
I rarely if ever recommend controlling your fire with the exhaust damper, however you might close that down by 25-50% just to slow the airflow a bit. Leave the intake open more than you've described.
 
I'm thinking Dry wood also. Have all the cooks been on same batch of wood. ?

What are your measurements on everything? Pics may help too.
 
Generally speaking, on a stickburner most of your fire/temperature control should be from your wood (amount, size, placement, etc.) and not your damper(s). A correctly designed wood burner won't overdraft and throttling it down with a damper (inlet or outlet) makes it burn "dirty".
It's possible if you've oversized things to have too much draft wide open, but if your fire is going out when you choke the intake, then you have effectively answered your question. You reduced draft and oxygen past the point to maintain combustion.
The three parts of combustion: fuel, oxygen, heat. You need to burn your wood with excess oxygen to keep it clean so most of the adjustment needs to come from the other two.
 
It does sound like your wood is really dry.

I doubt that your draft is that far over the top where it is acting like a fan on your flames or anything. I will run mine with the door wide open and not have that happen.

It really sounds to me like you're building too big of a fire with too dry of wood. You need a smaller fire/lower temp, give the fire less fuel to burn. Limit the potential energy and there's no way it can get too hot. Bigger splits, as PJ said, could also help, but if they're really as dry as they sound, it may not be much help.

Try to control your fire with the amount of fuel you provide, and see if you can find some less dry wood..
 
I'll throw this out there, since you oversized alot of the points you say. What is the size and height of your exhaust? Your exh could be pulling with too much draft. Shortening the height of my exh cured a simular problem I had on one of my smokers.
 
just use the dry wood but just build a smaller fire :wink:


I agree..... You want the fire burning with flames and what not. You need less wood on the fire. You may also want to choke the exhaust a bit of it is really oversized, as that could be causing too much draw. I built mine off of Feldon's calculator with about 25% oversized openings and firebox and I never had trouble. You only need enough intake to keep the fire burning cleanly.

Ed
 
Thanks for the suggestions,

I believe my wood could be the culprit, being too dry. I guess there isn't a scientific way to verify? I even had a moisture meter, but I broke it. It suggested the woods were between 10 and 15% relative moisture, so pretty dry.

I have some Oak that's been seasoned (by me) only for a few months, maybe I'll try that for giggles. That should still be way too green, no? Also have some plum wood that is barely seasoned.

Sometimes I start with lump/briquettes to get a good coal bed, but sometimes I start with burning down enough wood for the coal bed. I do tend to lose the coal bed no matter what, so that might also suggest too dry wood?

Actually my door hinges broke, so currently I don't have a door at all. After a long time I fired her up without the door and the temp control wasn't as bad as usually. I burned different wood this time, though.

And I guess I was able to maintain lower temperatures because a lot of heat escaped out of the missing door :-D

I'll snag a video next time I'm smoking with it to give you an idea of the fire size and how it's burning. Usually I have two splits burning next to each other.
 
It does sound like your wood is really dry.

I doubt that your draft is that far over the top where it is acting like a fan on your flames or anything. I will run mine with the door wide open and not have that happen.

It really sounds to me like you're building too big of a fire with too dry of wood. You need a smaller fire/lower temp, give the fire less fuel to burn. Limit the potential energy and there's no way it can get too hot. Bigger splits, as PJ said, could also help, but if they're really as dry as they sound, it may not be much help.

Try to control your fire with the amount of fuel you provide, and see if you can find some less dry wood..


Hi "Running with the door wide open" won't that affect the pit temps? Lower pit temps? just curious.
DanB
 
nice thread, I have the same question on too much draft.

I have a Shirley and I would like a little more smoke flavor. My wood is not too dry. I have been closing my main exhaust and routing it through my warming box and out that exhaust, I think that makes the smoke spend more time in the chamber. I have wondered about something to put in the main to create some chaos for the smoke, my thought was one of those wind whirly magigs ;) but in some type of steel.
 
nice thread, I have the same question on too much draft.

I have a Shirley and I would like a little more smoke flavor. My wood is not too dry. I have been closing my main exhaust and routing it through my warming box and out that exhaust, I think that makes the smoke spend more time in the chamber. I have wondered about something to put in the main to create some chaos for the smoke, my thought was one of those wind whirly magigs ;) but in some type of steel.

I once achieved a nice smoke flavor and consistent heat with my homebuilt RF managing the fire like this:

I had a lot of coals going on and a few really really small splits that barely kept burning. I closed my intake to the point they kept burning, but with really small flame.

I guess this isn't really how it's supposed to work, but it worked that one time. Just took a lot of effort to keep the fire just burning. Like constant fiddling with everything. And also I needed to add coals really often, since those two small splits didn't coal worth a dime.
 
Hmm, I tried with the green Oak. It actually burned pretty nice, as long as I had a few other dry splits in there with it. That's also a part of my problem, I can't seem to keep a fire burning without at least 3-4 splits at once, it almost feels like the firebox is so big that it won't "heat up".

I did a test run without the door, I needed to maintain way bigger fire than with the door, so clearly a lot of heat escapes that way. Is that normal? Or is my draft lacking?

Also some smoke escaped that way.

Here's what I needed to do to maintain 300F. Also kept once again losing the coal bed, only way to keep it would be to add 3-4 splits at once, and that would raise the temps too high.

[ame="https://youtu.be/I9OyiD965Ts"]https://youtu.be/I9OyiD965Ts[/ame]

I guess I'll need to weld the door on and do some more testing... And I smoked a pork collar, it got four hours of smoke and there was no smoke taste.

I also smoked a similar pork collar in my BGE, the same amount of smoking time and it was way oversmoked.
 
You control the temp in a stick burner mostly with the fire. How much of what kind of wood in which size etc. If the wood is too dry, you need a smaller fire that you feed more often. Also, try to maintain a bed of coals. It is easier to maintain an even burn with a mixture of glowing coals and wood with flames. That means adding wood a little more often rather than waiting for temps to drop.

The most important airflow consideration is that you have enough air to keep a clean burn and not get bad tasting smoke.

More air is not necessarily better. Up to a point, more air will fan the flames and burn hotter, but after that more air will let out more heat, require more fuel to hold temps, and carry away more moisture from your food.

I think many people run their stick burners with way more airflow than necessary and are making things harder than they need to be. I also think the online calculators suggest much larger openings than necessary, and they do not scale properly. I don't know who came up with the formulas, but the one I looked at was using inappropriate inputs and relationships. (I have an aero engineering degree and actually studied fluid dynamics and thermodynamics so I do have some basis for saying that) Making the openings all bigger was probably not a good idea, but you can mostly use dampers to correct that. The only thing that is hard to adjust is the relationship between the cross sections above and below the RF plate, but there is a lot of leeway there.
 
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