BGE Table "Plans"

Ron_L · Jul 24, 2008

One of the friends who was at our house on Sunday offered to make a table for my Large Eggs. I haven't been able to find plans for a table to hold two large Eggs so I adapted plans that I found for a single Egg table. These are not really plans but more of a high level drawing showing dimensions, but I was wondering if some of you who are skilled in woodworking could look these over for me. Does the overall design make sense? If I gave you this drawing would you be able to build a table from it? Any suggestions for improvements, etc? Have you seen actual plans for a two Egg table?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d172/Ron_L/Big Green Egg/BGETablefor2LBGE.jpg

I have this as a Visio drawing if anyone wants to add to it for me :-D

thillin · Jul 24, 2008

That's a long table. I would add a second shelf for storage.

Plowboy · Jul 24, 2008

My experience is that 16" is incorrect for the space between two shelves. That measurement seems to be from when the Eggs had the old style hinge. When I made my table with the plans from Naked Whiz and BGE, the lid wouldn't open all the way. I had to lift it with bigger bricks. Go measure you Eggs with the lids open and see if 16" is enough.

Plowboy · Jul 24, 2008

Consider a 36" high table. A better working height for us tall guys.

Ron_L · Jul 24, 2008

Plowboy said:
My experience is that 16" is incorrect for the space between two shelves. That measurement seems to be from when the Eggs had the old style hinge. When I made my table with the plans from Naked Whiz and BGE, the lid wouldn't open all the way. I had to lift it with bigger bricks. Go measure you Eggs with the lids open and see if 16" is enough.

Actually, the measurement for the old stle hinge is 17". The measurement for the spring assist is 15", but I have two round concrete patio stones that I will be putting under the Eggs and they are 1 3/4" thick, so i dropped the shelf by 1" (to 16") since the Egg will be 1 3/4 higher when it is on the concrete stone. Does that make sense?

C Rocke · Jul 24, 2008

Only thing I might do if I were to do mine over is to make it a but wider - 28 to 32 inches. Other than that, you're lookin' good!

Plowboy · Jul 24, 2008

Ron_L said:
Actually, the measurement for the old stle hinge is 17". The measurement for the spring assist is 15", but I have two round concrete patio stones that I will be putting under the Eggs and they are 1 3/4" thick, so i dropped the shelf by 1" (to 16") since the Egg will be 1 3/4 higher when it is on the concrete stone. Does that make sense?

As long as you've measured it, you should be good to go.

tjv · Jul 24, 2008

here is a couple pics of my egg table, two holes. Original table included large and medium eggs with open shelving. The modifications took it to a final plan for xl and large with two drawers and one cabinet. I will say the drop down side leaves are real handy. I don't really have plans but it works for me.

Just noticed in the last picture the rotisserie set up on the medium.......that was a fun project that made killer whole chicken.

Sledneck · Jul 24, 2008

I would put 4 x 4 post in the outside corners. Make it 34" H.Give you the option to add maybe 2 bid wheels with and axle on one side and casters on the other if you should decide to in the future. Over hang the top slats over the frame a little more at least 1" or more

Sledneck · Jul 24, 2008

tjv said:
here is a couple pics of my egg table, two holes. Original table included large and medium eggs with open shelving. The modifications took it to a final plan for xl and large with two drawers and one cabinet. I will say the drop down side leaves are real handy. I don't really have plans but it works for me.

I was going to suggest doors and drawers but you beat me to it

milehigh · Jul 24, 2008

Yep, doors in the middle. Is that a Corian top on yours tjv? Been toying with that idea.

Paul

swamprb · Jul 24, 2008

This was a Cypress Big Green Egg table that I modified to fit the Imperial Kamado and the LBGE. The tile between them is 12"x12" and then I added fold down side tables, topped with Ipe decking. Still isn't long enough IMO. If I were to do it over, I'd place them closer together and have a larger work space on the ends.

I really dig tjv's rotisserie!!

jonboy · Jul 24, 2008

The doors and drawers are very nice.
I personally would want a bigger work space between the eggs.
You could visit the naked whiz site and cut the design in half and use a mirror image as a working drawing.
jon

Rick's Tropical Delight · Jul 24, 2008

here's a couple of things you might want to consider...

a hole for ash removal. the boards on the lower support shelf make it difficult to remove the ash without making a mess.

a u shaped, open face hole instead of a circle hole so you can get the eggs in and out easier. that is, if you ever plan on moving them.

this guy on the big green egg forum did all kinds of testing on the temp under the egg and the results are hosted on the naked whiz's site...
click

Buster Dog BBQ · Jul 24, 2008

I went to Sam's, got a Seville stainless steel table and had a buddy cut a hole in the side. The table is 4ft long, so just like the plans. We welded the shelf on and reinforced the cut hole. I have two of them and put together I have about 5ft of stainless steel work area. Very nice to clean up. I had a long table like you described but it is now sagging a little and it was just hard to keep clean.

Ron_L · Jul 24, 2008

Sledneck said:
I would put 4 x 4 post in the outside corners. Make it 34" H.Give you the option to add maybe 2 bid wheels with and axle on one side and casters on the other if you should decide to in the future. Over hang the top slats over the frame a little more at least 1" or more

I'm thinking about either 34" or 36" as Todd suggested, but the table for my small Egg is 32" so I kept this one at 32" to match.

jonboy said:
The doors and drawers are very nice.
I personally would want a bigger work space between the eggs.
You could visit the naked whiz site and cut the design in half and use a mirror image as a working drawing.
jon

I just went and did some more measureing and I could probably go ou to 96", but that's it.

Rick's Tropical Delight said:
here's a couple of things you might want to consider...

a hole for ash removal. the boards on the lower support shelf make it difficult to remove the ash without making a mess.

a u shaped, open face hole instead of a circle hole so you can get the eggs in and out easier. that is, if you ever plan on moving them.

this guy on the big green egg forum did all kinds of testing on the temp under the egg and the results are hosted on the naked whiz's site...
click

I was wondering about ash removal. I didn't see a table on the Naked Whiz site with an opening, but that sounds like a good idea.

I also like the idea of a slot for the Egg instead of a hole. It would be a lot easier.

Buster Dog BBQ said:
I went to Sam's, got a Seville stainless steel table and had a buddy cut a hole in the side. The table is 4ft long, so just like the plans. We welded the shelf on and reinforced the cut hole. I have two of them and put together I have about 5ft of stainless steel work area. Very nice to clean up. I had a long table like you described but it is now sagging a little and it was just hard to keep clean.

That would be cool, but I don' have a friend who is willing to cut stainless and weld for me :-D

Thanks for all of the suggestions! keep 'em coming. I'm going to modify the drawing this evening.

There's one nagging question that hasn't been answered...

If I gave you this drawing would you be able to build from it? This guy is an experienced woodworker and carpenter. Heck, he frames his own house, so he should be able to handle it

Plowboy · Jul 24, 2008

I always find it interesting that Big Green Egg Table, or some variation, is always the most popular Google search phrase coming into my site. A lot of people out there trying to build tables I guess.

BobF · Jul 24, 2008

I could build it from your drawing. I think your friend could.
Looks like you have lots of good ideas.
If you want a "picnic table" look, your frame is fine. If you want a "furniture" look, you could ask your friend if he can do mortise and tenon joints for the legs to rails.
If it will be an outdoor table, make sure to choose a wood that can handle the environment. Ipe, Teak, redwood, cedar, maybe oak.
If it gets lots of sun, you may want a marine grade finish.

swamprb · Jul 24, 2008

I made this one for my IK before I had the BGE - part of the fire sale currently going on in Bothell WA!
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/767710559.html

Ron_L · Jul 24, 2008

Here is an updated version...

It is definitely an outdoor table, and I'm not really concerned about a furniture look. If he want to go upscale I'm not going to complain, but I'll take whatever he builds as long as it is sturdy.

BGE Table "Plans"

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